Ruffage A practical guide to vegetables : 100+ recipes and 230+ variations

Abra Berens

Book - 2019

In this insightful and enchanting cookbook, new flavors, textures, techniques, and ways to enjoy all the vegetables you want to eat are revealed by chef and former farmer Abra Berens. Not only a terrific resource, with more than 300 recipes written in Berens' uniquely succinct style, the book also presents evocative storytelling to open each chapter, and photography that conveys the seasons and rugged beauty of Michigan farm country--

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Subjects
Genres
Cookbooks
Published
San Francisco : Chronicle Books [2019]
Language
English
Main Author
Abra Berens (author)
Other Authors
Lucy Engelman (illustrator)
Item Description
Includes index.
Physical Description
464 pages : illustrations (chiefly color) ; 25 cm
ISBN
9781452169323
  • Introduction
  • How to Use This Book
  • Glossary of Terms
  • Part 1. Strong pantry
  • Oils
  • Acidity
  • Spices and Seasonings
  • Herbs
  • Grains
  • Beans
  • Pasta
  • Grits
  • Bread
  • Dairy
  • Dried Fruit
  • Nuts and Seeds
  • Preserved and Tinned Fish
  • Condiments
  • Part 2. Vegetables and how I cook them
  • Asparagus
  • Pan roasted: asparagus stalks w/anchovy-caper butter and fresh herbs
  • Grilled: asparagus w/smoked whitefish, pea shoots, and mushrooms
  • Raw: salad of asparagus, arugula, egg, and radish w/mustard vinaigrette
  • Beets
  • Steam roasted: beets, w/smoked whitefish; sour cream, and dill
  • Puréed: beet-dressed pasta w/golden raisins and poppy seeds
  • Broccoli
  • Raw: broccoli salad w/warm bacon vinaigrette, sunflower seeds, and dried cherries
  • Oven roasted: broccoli w/melty cheese and chili oil
  • Quick steamed, bright green broccoli w/seared whitefish and lemon butter
  • Cabbage
  • Raw shaved cabbage salad w/chili oil, cilantro, and charred melon
  • Roasted/grilled: seared duck breast w/brown sugar-vinegar cabbage, roasted potatoes, and herb salad
  • Carrots
  • Raw: carrot salad w/yogurt, pickled raisins, and pistachios
  • Oven roasted: carrots w/spicy apricot jam, mint, and almonds
  • Cauliflower
  • Raw: shaved cauliflower salad w/smoked whitefish mayo, lemon, radicchio, and herbs
  • Oven roasted: cauliflower w/roasted tomatoes, parsley, and bread crumbs
  • Puréed: cauliflower purée topped w/seared pork cutlet
  • Celery and celery root
  • Raw celery root salad w/lentils and bagna cauda
  • Puréed: celery root puree topped w/seared chicken thigh and green salad
  • Raw: celery stalk salad w/grapes, apples, goat cheese, and pecans
  • Braised: braised stalk celery
  • Corn
  • Grilled: grilled corn on the cob w/parmesan butter
  • Roasted: corn kernel salad w/soybeans, cherry tomatoes, and basil
  • Puréed: cream-less corn w/sautéed greens and seared salmon
  • Cucumbers
  • Raw: cucumber salad w/cherry tomatoes, paisley oil, and cottage cheese
  • Blistered: cucumber w/cumin yogurt and parsley
  • Eggplant
  • Braised: stewy eggplant and tomato coddled epgs
  • Oven roasted: crispy eggplant w/fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, pickled raisins, and mint
  • Puréed smoky eggplant pasta w/pounded walnut relish, mozzarella, and basil
  • Fennel
  • Raw: shaved fennel salad w/apricots, chili oil, parsley, mint, and lamb chops
  • Braised: braised fennel
  • Garlic
  • Raw: grilled pork chops w/garlic and kale relish
  • Sautéed garlic and spinach pasta
  • Confit: garlic confit
  • Confit garlic marinated white beans w/celery and parsley salad
  • Green Beans
  • Pan roasted: blistered green beans w/tomatoes, pounded walnuts, and raw summer squash
  • Grilled: charred green beans w/crispy chickpeas and curry yogurt
  • Braised: green beans w/tomatoes, lentils, and onions
  • Greens, delicate: arugula, leaf lettuce, head lettuce, spinach, baby bok choy
  • Raw: perfect Salad
  • Braised: braised lettuce
  • Grilled: charred whole romaine w/hard-boiled egg, anchovy vinaigrette, and garlic bread crumbs
  • Greens hearty: chard, collards, kale, radicchio and other chicories
  • Raw: massaged kale w/tomatoes, creamed mozzarella, and wild rice
  • Sautéed: sautéed greens w/garlic and chili flakes
  • Braised: braised kale w/jowl bacon, onions, and parsley
  • Oven roasted: oven-roasted kale chips w/grated raclette
  • Kohlrabi
  • Baked: kohlrabi potato gratin
  • Raw: kohl-slaw w/apples, black lentils, sherry vinaigrette, and seared salmon
  • Leeks
  • Raw: marinated leek salad w/wheat berries, carrots, and seared salmon
  • Braised: slow-cooked leeks w/thyme and cream
  • Onions
  • Raw: shaved onion salad w/cucumber, yogurt, and mint over lamb chops
  • Braised: vinegar-braised onions w/seared whitefish and arugula
  • Caramelized: caramelized onion and goat cheese toasts
  • Parsnips
  • Oven roasted: roasted parsnips w/fresh goat cheese, pecans, and pickled apricots
  • Puréed: parsnip puree w/duck breast, radicchio, and cranberry relish
  • Peas
  • Marinated: marinated peas w/yesterday's roast chicken, baby onions, and lettuce
  • Puréed: sweet pea toasts
  • Pan roasted: peas w/parsley, thyme, butter, and onions
  • Peppers, sweet
  • Grilled grilled peppers w/eggplant and tomato over couscous
  • Braised: peperonata w/poached eggs and paprika potatoes
  • Potatoes
  • Boiled: simple boiled potatoes w/sweet butter and herbs
  • Oven roasted: roasted potato salad w/egg, celery, herbs, and bread crumbs
  • Braised: mustard braised potatoes w/chicken thighs
  • Baked: jacket potatoes w/shaved vegetable salad and tuna mayo
  • Radishes
  • Pan roasted: roasted radishes w/their greens and white wine
  • Raw: radish wedges w/bagna cauda
  • Poached: poached radishes w/white wine, chicken stock, and butter
  • Ramps
  • Raw: ramp pesto w/seared chicken, radish, and bread salad
  • Grilled: grilled ramps w/parsley, walnuts, and hard-boiled egg
  • Sautéed sautéed ramps w/morels, spinach, and cream on toast
  • Squash, Summer
  • Raw: shaved summer squash w/parmesan, lots and lots of herbs, and olive oil
  • Grilled: grilled zucchini planks w/white beans, olive oil, and rosemary
  • Marinated: summer squash escabèche w/mushrooms, arugula, and steak
  • Squash, Winter
  • Pan roasted: delicate, squash w/dukkah, ricotta, and dried cherries
  • Oven roasted: winter squash and brown butter purée
  • Sunchokes
  • Raw: shaved sunchokes w/mustard vinaigrette and parsley
  • Puréed: sunchoke purée w/cream and white wine
  • Oven roasted: roasted sunchokes w/massaged kale and brown butter vinaigrette
  • Braised: braised sunchokes w/almonds, cream, sherry, parsley, and duck breast
  • Tomatoes
  • Raw: tomato panzanella w/corn, cucumbers, and herb salad
  • Stuffed: tomatoes stuffed w/lentils and goat cheese
  • Oven roasted: oven roasted tomatoes
  • Turnips and rutabaga
  • Raw: matchstick salad: turnip, carrots, kohlrabi, w/lemon, parmesan, and parsley
  • Oven roasted roasted turnip, apple, rosemary, w/pork loin and spinach
  • Braised: turnip and potato mash w/chicken legs, orange, vanilla vinaigrette, and radicchio
  • Acknowledgements
  • Index
Review by Library Journal Review

With recipes featuring vegetables from the first tender asparagus to frost-sweetened carrots, the latest from Berens (Chef and Farmer) will delight home cooks. Full of sensible advice and imaginative ideas on making full use of nature's bounty throughout the seasons, the simple recipes are accompanied by luscious illustrations by Engelman and photographs by Berger, helping to turn meal planning into a creative pleasure. New cooks will especially appreciate the comprehensive chapter on how to develop an effective, working pantry; the full, in-depth explanation of cooking terms; and basic guidance on choosing and storing vegetables. Easy-to-follow sidebars on cooking staples, such as rice and couscous, will assist the most rudimentary cook. Well-organized, the book focuses on one vegetable at a time, offering raw and cooked options. While some recipes include meat, vegetarians can easily substitute nonanimal proteins. VERDICT Crammed with exciting ideas that encourage creativity, this lively book will quickly become an essential item in the home cook's library.--Penelope J.M. Klein, Glasgow, Scotland

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