Gâteaux Sweets

Pastry chef Yoshida presents a refined recipe collection inspired by French patisserie in his elegant if fussy English-language debut. While croissants, chocolate eclairs, Mont Blanc, and other French classics make an appearance, many recipes take inspiration from other parts of the world: the black sesame seed Paris--Brest, for instance, pays homage to Yoshida's native Japan, and "Sicilia," a pistachio Joconde sponge with Morello cherry compote, is inspired by Italian pastry. Yoshida admits these desserts "require skill and experience" and even seasoned home bakers will encounter unfamiliar techniques and equipment. Thankfully, Yoshida provides helpful, step-by-step illustrations for assembling fig macarons, piping the lemon tart, and laminating inverse puff pastry. Though the pompous prose at times chafes ("I did make a few improvements to accommodate the French palate, which is more familiar with the real taste of chocolate," Yoshida says of American brownies) and the recipes can be pretentious (one of his creations, a gateau made with caramelized maple sugar, is simply titled "M"), these tonal issues won't deter ambitious readers from trying their hands at the gorgeous Souche de Noël, a pistachio-raspberry Saint-Honoré, hazelnut millefeuille, and other show-stopping desserts. Veteran bakers will be rewarded. (Feb.)

Award-winning chef Yoshida, who owns celebrated boutique bakeries in Japan and in Paris, does not sugarcoat what cooks can expect with his debut cookbook. These works of pastry are demanding and are for skilled and experienced bakers. Recipes in the book are arranged in chapters by time of day (morning, 4 PM, evening) and cover the patisserie gamut, from croissants and madeleines to a Saint-Tropez tart and hazelnut financiers. The influence of Yoshida's own culinary heritage shines through in recipes such as Japanese strawberry cream cake and black sesame Paris-Brest. Home bakers may gravitate towards some of the slightly less intimidating bakes, including Breteuil sables and classic brownies. But Yoshida's attention to detail extends even to the most basic treats, as exemplified by his recipe for lemon cake, which instructs bakers to pipe the finished batter into pans instead of simply spooning it in. Museum-worthy photographs of some of the finished creations enhance this magnificently packaged celebration of the sweet culinary artwork of Yoshida, who brings Japanese finesse and flavors to the marvelous world of French pastry. VERDICT A master class in patisserie for fledgling pastry chefs, as well as an aspirational guide to the subject for ambitious home bakers.--John Charles