All the rage Stories from the frontline of beauty : a history of pain, pleasure, and power 1860-1960

Virginia Nicholson

Book - 2024

"Who decides what is fashionable? What clothes we wear, what hairstyles we create, what color lipstick we adore, what body shape is "all the rage". The story of female adornment from 1860-1960 is intriguingly unbuttoned in this glorious social history. Virginia Nicholson has long been fascinated by the way we women present ourselves--or are encouraged to present ourselves--to the world. In this book, we learn about rational dress, suffragettes' hats, the Marcel wave, the Gibson Girls, corsets, and the banana skirt. At the centre of this story is the female body, in all its diversity--fat, thin, short, tall, brown, white, black, pink, smooth, hairy, wrinkly, youthful, crooked, or symmetrical; and--relevant as ever in this... context--the vexed issues of body image and bodily autonomy. We may even find ourselves wondering, whose body is it? In the hundred years this book charts, the Western world saw the rapid introduction of new technologies like photography, film, and eventually television, which (for better and worse) thrust women--and female imagery--out of the private and into the public gaze."--

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Subjects
Published
New York : Pegasus Books 2024.
Language
English
Main Author
Virginia Nicholson (author)
Edition
First Pegasus Books cloth edition
Physical Description
519 pages : illustrations ; 24 cm
Bibliography
Includes bibliographical references (pages 458-499) and index.
ISBN
9781639367061
  • Prologue
  • 1. Victoriana
  • Alexandra
  • Vanity Fair
  • Lady-like
  • Binaries and Boundaries
  • English Rose
  • Secrets and Lies
  • 2. Belle Epoque
  • Lillie
  • Working Girls
  • Rational Dress
  • Improving on Nature
  • Dollar Princesses
  • Freewheeling to Freedom
  • 3. New Century
  • Diana
  • Austerity
  • Young Ladyhood
  • Black Beauty
  • Purple, Green and White
  • Legs-Woman
  • Celluloid and Paraffin
  • 4. Jazz Age
  • Freda
  • Ladies of Leisure
  • Handmaids' Tales
  • Fat Worry
  • Goldmines
  • Eternal Youth
  • Winning the Beauty Race
  • 5. Modern Girls
  • Prunella
  • Exposure
  • Depression
  • Keep Young and Beautiful
  • A Demanding Life
  • Mr Willi
  • 6. Beauty is a Duty
  • Betty
  • Die Führerin
  • War and Wardrobes
  • Mascara Magic
  • For King and Country
  • The Pedestal
  • 7. New Look
  • Brigitte
  • Titillation
  • Pulp Fiction
  • The Female Fairy Tale
  • Vital Statistics
  • Black Perfection
  • A Stone in the Heart
  • In the Mirror
  • Afterword
  • Appendix
  • Notes on Sources
  • Bibliography
  • Acknowledgements
  • Image Credits
  • Index
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

Historian Nicholson (Perfect Wives in Ideal Homes) scrupulously details how shifting notions of femininity shaped a century of women's fashion. She begins in the 1860s, contending that the era's rigid moral code translated into a desire to police women's bodies: corsets constrained figures; hair was "obediently" pinned, combed, or brushed back. The dawn of the 20th century saw those strictures loosening to make way for more permissive social conventions, as well as lower necklines, slit skirts, and lingerie that accentuated women's sexuality. In the 1910s and '20s, bobs, boyish figures, and sleeker silhouettes dominated as women's increased participation in sports and the workplace fueled a rising "preference for lissomeness over bulk" that persisted through the ensuing decades, which saw women don more form-fitting outfits, shorter skirts, and bikinis. Nicholson astutely draws out how "demands and pressures on the female body" increased along with "progress towards equality and liberation" as a patriarchal culture sought to reassert its control over women. Feminist fashionistas will want to add this to their shelf. (Aug.)

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