On the curry trail Chasing the flavor that seduced the world : in 50 recipes

Iyer's (Indian Cooking Unfolded, 2013) approach to culinary history reveals how spices from India and the East appeared in the rest of the world ages ago, carried by worldwide merchants, but the idea of curry appeared only as the Indian diaspora created communities far from the subcontinent. Iyer inventories recipes by regions and countries worldwide--showing how each has developed its own versions and variations on curry--and deconstructs curry, breaking down the palette of spices into understandable components. The creation and dissolution of the Indian Raj and subsequent emigration turned London into a virtual capital of curry. Iyer steers cooks to less common curries; now a Midwesterner, he keeps recipes accessible and explains unusual ingredients. Currently popular butter chicken will attract many a home cook. Date-stuffed lamb patties moderate dates' intense sweetness with plenty of fragrant mint leaves. Iyer likens Oaxacan mole to curry, noting that "spicy" and "hot" are not necessarily synonymous. Sidebars offer very useful information for Indian cooking novices on topics such as cleaning and preparing mustard greens.

Culinary educator, food entrepreneur, and James Beard Award nominee Iyer (Smashed, Mashed, Boiled, and Baked--and Fried, Too!) proffers his latest cookbook of Indian-rooted fare, this one specific to curries, which he describes as "saucy, brothy, gravy-rich, and stewy dishes." It begins with an enlightening history explaining the evolution of curry and its global reach, which, Iyer concludes, resulted more from migration than from the spice trade; as people moved, curry flavors and techniques transformed to fit the regions where they settled. Iyer further makes this point with maps (labeled with recipes from the book) depicting how curry has traveled. Chapters are divided by continent, and each of the 50 recipes is identified by the country where it's most commonly found. Recipes are preceded by one-page introductory essays including origin, anecdotes, and more. Instructions are clear, and copious helpful tips are also on offer. The illustrations, while attractive, don't quite stimulate the appetite as photographs of the dishes might. Overall, this is a thoughtful work showcasing the diaspora of a dynamic flavor. VERDICT Recommended for readers who want not only to make curry from a variety of cultures but also to understand the scope of this far-reaching fare.--P.J. Gardiner