Fresh pasta at home 10 doughs, 20 shapes, 100+ recipes, with or without a machine

"Making pasta from scratch is one of life's elemental culinary pleasures," writes the team at America's Test Kitchen in this hearty collection. Each entry begins with a paragraph on "why this recipe works" that delves into the history and flavor combinations of the dish; for example, a broth enriched with shrimp shells adds depth to a Venetian-cuisine-inspired linguine with shrimp. The opening chapters focus on creating the pasta, with instructions for four types of dough: egg, semolina, whole-wheat, and gluten-free made with brown rice flour. Handy charts and lists dispense advice on dos and don'ts and opine on such topics as which sauces pair best with which pasta shapes. Indeed, there are some 18 different shapes to try, from the familiar farfalle to the irregular maltagliati, which means "badly cut." Dinner entrées are the centerpiece, with favorites (fettuccine Alfredo) appearing along with more ambitious options (pappardelle with duck and chestnut ragù). A comparatively small sampling of filled pasta includes short rib agnolotti with hazelnuts and browned butter. A colorful cascade of sauces constitutes the last chapter. Home cooks will find plenty of ways to test their skills in this thorough resource. (Dec.)