Black ivy A revolt in style

Jason Jules

Book - 2021

From the most avant-garde jazz musicians, visual artists and poets to architects, philosophers and writers, Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style charts a period in American history when Black men across the country adopted the clothing of a privileged elite and made it their own. It shows how a generation of men took the classic Ivy Look and made it cool, edgy and unpredictable in ways that continue to influence today's modern menswear. Here you will see some famous, infamous and not so famous figures in Black culture such as Amiri Baraka, Charles White, Malcolm X, Martin Luther King Jr., James Baldwin, Miles Davis, John Coltrane and Sidney Poitier, and how they reinvented Ivy and Prep fashion--the dominant looks of the time. The real stars of... the book--the Oxford cloth button-down shirt, the hand-stitched loafer, the soft shoulder three-button jacket and the perennial repp tie--are all here. What Black Ivy explores is how these clothes are reframed and redefined by a stylish group of men from outside the mainstream, challenging the status quo, struggling for racial equality and civil rights.

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Subjects
Genres
Illustrated works
Published
London, UK : Reel Art Press, an imprint of Rare Art Press LTD 2021
Language
English
Main Author
Jason Jules (author)
Other Authors
Graham Marsh (author)
Edition
First edition
Physical Description
223 pages : illustrations (some color), portraits ; 29 cm
Bibliography
Includes index.
ISBN
9781909526822
  • A revolt in style / Jason Jules
  • The birth of cool / Graham Marsh
  • In literature
  • In the arts
  • In music
  • In film
  • In schools
  • In the city
  • In Civil Rights
  • In marches
  • In politics
  • In sports
  • In advertising
  • The photographers.
Review by Library Journal Review

This volume is a precursor, of sorts, to contemporary images of Black street style, with brief introductions to major cultural figures of the civil rights era. In the mid-20th century, some Black men wore staples of the so-called "Ivy Look" (loafers, Oxford shirts, soft jackets, cardigans, elbow patches, repp ties) to visually assert their equality and demand respect. Editor Jules argues that this "Black Ivy" style, was a "sartorial power grab" that challenged the status quo of who defined style and who was on the margins. He and coauthor Graham Marsh, both British experts on Ivy style, offer evidence for their thesis in photographs of Black actors, authors, musicians, scholars, and activists, captured by well-known photographers of the day. Impeccable with an edge, Black Ivy style defines our historical impressions of Sidney Poitier, Arthur Ashe, Charles White, Jacob Lawrence, Miles Davis, John Coltrane, James Baldwin, Ralph Ellison, and even Malcolm X, among others--and it still looks cool today. VERDICT Album covers, advertising images, and portrait photographs of iconic Black cultural figures illustrate variations on cool Black Ivy style in this photo-filled homage.--Lindsay King

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