That noodle life Soulful, savory, spicy, slurpy

Some variation on the noodle appears in just about every cuisine. For many Americans, chicken and noodles is a childhood staple. And noodles are virtually synonymous with Italian cooking. Many East Asian countries have ancient traditions of noodle making, and in China, long noodles equal long life. The Les, popular bloggers, express their passion for the noodle in all its global guises. Organizing recipes by complexity, they enthusiastically mix ethnic origins, with Chinese, Vietnamese, Italian, and more interspersed, precisely instructing as to both ingredients and techniques. The Les are faithful to classic dishes but don't hesitate to be puckishly inventive with dishes like Philly Cheesesteak Noodles or Oven-Roasted Yakiudon al Pastor, a gleeful mash-up of Japanese and Mexican flavors. Making a bowl of ramen may prove daunting to many home cooks, and ramen fans may be surprised by a Malaysian version of this wildly popular restaurant dish. A whole chapter covers assorted versions of the ever-beloved lasagna. Photographs further set readers salivating and rushing to the kitchen to start pasta water boiling.

"Noodles make people happy," writes the blogging husband-and-wife duo behind I Am a Food Blog in this charming if scattered collection. Primarily inspired by Italian and Asian cuisines, the Les showcase classic pasta dishes including cacio e pepe, and spicy sesame chili oil noodles, as well as playful riffs such as casarecce moules frites (where casarecce takes the place of fries) and chipotle adobo pork belly ramen. Throughout, they provide ample information on unfamiliar ingredients (Chinese black vinegar, made from black sticky rice, can be substituted with balsamic vinegar) and lesser-known noodles, including biang biang noodles, handmade, wide, chewy noodles originating in central China. Unfortunately, recipe organization can be dizzying: for instance, the Les present nine quick ideas for how to prepare instant noodles at the beginning of the book, but then introduce ramen toward the very end. And instead of sorting by noodle type (pasta, udon, etc.), the authors center chapters around occasions and moods--such as date nights, "cozy moods," and potluck dinners--with recipes for chile oils and sauces sprinkled in at random. That said, the most logical section goes off course to focus on a handful of indulgent lasagna recipes, including ultimate lasagna bolognese and creamy chicken lasagna. Much sifting is required to slurp up the goods in this one. (Mar.)