Treasures of the Mexican table Classic recipes, local secrets

Jinich, host of the PBS series Pati's Mexican Table, showcases delicious recipes from across Mexico in this unexpectedly tepid-feeling recipe collection. Some hail from lesser-known locations: a soup with "belly button" dumplings comes from Jinetes de Machado, a town of fewer than 60 people, all related. A standout chapter on Mexico's masa specialties includes Sonoran tacos bravos in a double layer of tortillas dipped in tomato sauce, quesadillas made with chile puree, and gorditas sweetened with evaporated milk. A sea of salsas includes peanut salsa and salsa borracha, or "drunken salsa," a popular salsa in the central states that's made with beer. The recipes cover a wide range of difficulty, from a humble corn soup from Mixteca Alta to a Oaxacan mole with 20 ingredients. Desserts include holiday breads and sandwich cookies shaped like flowers, while savory meat dishes--such as a mixed platter traditionally cooked on an old plowshare over a fire--are balanced by vegetables like green beans with pureed corn. Meanwhile, sidebars cover nuts and bolts like sourcing goat meat. Jinich's instructions don't miss a beat, but the tone is so cool and collected that it sometimes borders on distant. Thorough as this is, the curious absence of its author's charming personality leaves this feeling a bit flat. Agent: David Black, David Black Literary. (Nov.)

Mexico City--born, Maryland-based chef Jinich (host of the James Beard Award--winning, Emmy-nominated PBS show Pati's Mexican Table) offers an extensive collection of regional Mexican regional recipes, with a focus on lesser-known flavors and techniques. Recipes include a variety of soups, salsas and sauces, rice and pasta dishes, entrées using a variety of proteins, salads and vegetables, and desserts. Some of the recipes have lengthy ingredient lists, for which Jinich often suggests substitutions, as she does on her show. Note that while definitely intended for the home cook, these are not generally fast weeknight dishes. A single recipe often calls for several kinds of chilies, and a blender is a key piece of equipment. Extensive headnotes contextualize each recipe and create the sense that Jinich is conversing directly with readers. The gorgeous close-up photography is a bonus. VERDICT For home cooks looking for recipes that go beyond Tex- Mex, Jinich's cookbook offers delicious insights about the rich and varied culinary culture of Mexico. Longtime viewers of her PBS cooking show will be drawn in, as will new fans.--Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. Libs., Oxford, OH