The secret history of food Strange but true stories about the origins of everything we eat

Matt Siegel

Book - 2021

"Is Italian olive oil really Italian, or are we dipping our bread in lamp oil? Why are we masochistically drawn to foods that can hurt us, like hot peppers? Far from being a classic American dish, is apple pie actually . . . English? "As a species, we're hardwired to obsess over food," Matt Siegel explains as he sets out "to uncover the hidden side of everything we put in our mouths." Siegel also probes subjects ranging from the myths--and realities--of food as aphrodisiac, to how one of the rarest and most exotic spices in all the world (vanilla) became a synonym for uninspired sexual proclivities, to the role of food in fairy- and morality tales. He even makes a well-argued case for how ice cream helped defea...t the Nazis. The Secret History of Food is a rich and satisfying exploration of the historical, cultural, scientific, sexual, and, yes, culinary subcultures of this most essential realm"--provided by publisher.

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Subjects
Published
New York, NY : Ecco, an imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers [2021]
Language
English
Main Author
Matt Siegel (author)
Edition
First edition
Physical Description
270 pages ; 24 cm
Bibliography
Includes bibliographical references (pages 197-249) and index.
ISBN
9780062973214
  • Chapter 1. A History of Swallowing
  • Chapter 2. Pie, Progress, and Plymouth Rock
  • Chapter 3. Breakfast of Champions
  • Chapter 4. Children of the Corn
  • Chapter 5. Honey Launderina
  • Chapter 6. The Vanilla of Society
  • Chapter 7. The Ghosts of Cockaigne Past
  • Chapter 8. The Choices of a New Generation
  • Chapter 9. Forbidden Berries (or Appetite for Distraction)
  • Chapter 10. Attack of the Killer Tomatoes
  • Acknowledgments
  • Notes
  • Index
Review by Booklist Review

Consumers take food for granted, few appreciating the full story behind what they put into their mouths every day. Gathering together scientific, cultural, aesthetic, and gastronomic data, Siegel puckishly plumbs the backstories of some of the most significant foods in the American diet. He makes a compelling case for the centrality of pie. Noting its British origins, he explains with winning insight how American colonists made it distinctively different by replacing the thick, hard, tough, and just-for-encasing British pastry with something much more delicate and tempting. He deplores the state of seafood in the U.S., noting the triumph of marketing over honesty, transforming useless by-catch Patagonian toothfish into suddenly highly prized Chilean sea bass simply by a name change. He makes a plausible case that American troops won WWII in no small part because they were nourished with comforting and strengthening ice cream. Siegel also surveys the industrial origins of fast food and Americans' insistence on abundance of choice--think Starbucks' hundreds of coffee variations. Includes bibliographic notes.

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

Food writer Siegel debuts with a delightful and unusual look at the evolution of food. The famed early-19th-century French food writer Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once claimed, "Tell me what you eat, and I shall tell you what you are." Siegel takes these words to heart, asserting that "what we eat defines us not just physically but psychologically, socially, symbolically, and spiritually." He bolsters this notion with research that suggests that parents' food diets can affect everything from their offspring's metabolism to disease resistance, and impact their children's tastes even before their "first bite of food." (In one such study, "infants whose mothers consumed carrot juice during pregnancy... showed a greater preference for carrot-flavored cereal.") He traces how apple pie became "the ultimate symbol" of American independence, innovation, and excess, and shares zany facts on everything from vanilla (which was a term of endearment until the 1800s) to honey and chili peppers (both of which have been used in "ritual torture"). The food-related trivia surprises throughout, such as the tumultuous history of the tomato, including a fruit-versus-vegetable debate that ended in the U.S. Supreme Court and its long suspected poisonous attributes thanks to its connection to its cousin, the lethal nightshade. An invigorating culinary romp through time, this is a cheeky treat for history buffs and foodies alike. (Aug.)

(c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Review by Library Journal Review

Foodies and trivia lovers will eat up this irreverent and fascinating book about the origins, misconceptions, sciences, and subcultures behind certain foods and spices. Siegel digs deep to uncover weirdly entertaining facts about food that will leave listeners alternately fascinated and moderately disgusted. From the origins of a well-known cereal, to mummified heads in honey, to the most expensive and exotic spice in the world being a synonym for boring--there's something for everyone. Over the course of 10 chapters, Siegel spills the beans on so many different "common" foods; walking into the grocery store or showing up at a potluck with a favorite dish will never be the same again. Brilliantly read by Roger Wayne who suffuses energy and hilarity into his narration. VERDICT A feast for the mind.--Erin Cataldi, Johnson Cty. P.L., Franklin, IN

(c) Copyright Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Review by Kirkus Book Review

A cheeky look at food as "an obsession, hobby, competitive sport, and profession; a seasonal calendar and nostalgic time capsule; a social lubricant and peace offering; a family heirloom; a drug and spiritual rite." Why does apple pie have "an important place in American history"? How did cold cereal become a staple that "transcends race, social class, age, gender--and even dietary guidelines"? Why is it that "between two-thirds and 90 percent of olive oil sold in the United States isn't what it's claimed to be"? Siegel seeks answers in these short and frequently hilarious essays on the origins of food. Chapter titles like "A History of Swallowing," "Honey Laundering," and "Attack of the Killer Tomatoes" give a good sense of the author's voice. Indeed, readers will find many memorable lines, as when he cites low points of culinary history, including "the use of foods such as honey and hot peppers for ritual torture" and "British food." Despite the snarky tone, the book contains hard science--e.g., "honey is naturally acidic and hygroscopic, meaning it sucks moisture from its surroundings, not unlike salt, creating a harsh environment for bacteria and microorganisms to survive in." Siegel's fondness for long lists is overkill, but readers who enjoy passages that disgust as much as entertain will find much to like, as when he notes that McDonald's adds a silicon-based polymer to its frying oil to reduce splatter: "the same chemical is also used in head lice treatments, condom lubricants, and breast implants." Equally memorable chapters focus on corn ("a secret ingredient in almost everything we eat"); vanilla, which, during Prohibition, "made a decent substitute for alcohol for the drowning of one's emotions"; and grocery store foods with added vitamins, such as "healthy heart orange juice with omega-3 (because what goes better with orange juice than tilapia, sardines, and anchovies?)." Little of the information is appetizing, but it's never dull. Idiosyncratic essays that will give foodies much to digest. Copyright (c) Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Copyright (c) Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.