Review by Booklist Review
Cooking is by necessity an endless repetition, Lawson (At My Table, 2018) proclaims in her latest compendium of recipes from her imaginative kitchen. But repetition doesn't by any means have to yield dull conformity. With this cookbook, Lawson reveals her mastery not only of the stove but also of the essay. Each recipe comes with extensive reflections on hospitality, family, cooking techniques, and ingredients that frame and give meaning to her creative British cuisine. While there are a few British Isles dishes, such as colcannon and trifle, influences from India, North Africa, and Italy tend to draw more attention. In a lengthy disquisition, Lawson reveals her intense passion for anchovies. Aversion to waste leads her to devise a curry out of banana peels. Many of the recipes are designed for just two, perfect for cooking in times of pandemic. Lawson comes to the defense of brown foods, such as stews and braises, which in the age of Instagram are too often dismissed as not photogenic enough. Nevertheless, her book swells with splendid full-color photographs.
From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review
Lawson (At My Table) combines offerings that put a spin on recipes from restaurants, friends, and family, with an insightful take on the importance of cooking in her own life, in this delightful outing. On the food front, she provides a medley of dishes such as cherry and almond crumble; a gluten-free banana bread with chocolate and walnuts (the result of a friend asking for a gluten-free version of her standard recipe); a spaghetti with chard, chiles, and anchovies adapted from the Fitzroy restaurant in Cornwall, England; and the "headily intense" short rib stew she makes at home and spices up with chiles, shallots, and ginger. Perceptive essays appear throughout, among them "A Is for Anchovy," an ode to what Lawson calls "the bacon of the sea"; "A Loving Defence of Brown Food," in which she muses on how, "to the naked eye, brown food is beautiful: rich, warm, and full of depth and subtle variegation"; and "Christmas Comforts," a heartwarming tale of a Covid Christmas ("Some things cannot change: I will never renounce my traditional Christmas lunch menu"). The prose leans toward the formal, but the recipes are cheerful, straightforward, and easy to follow. Lawson's fans are in for a treat. (Apr.)
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Review by Library Journal Review
The latest offering from acclaimed chef Lawson features her signature blend of innovative recipes and epicurean storytelling. Lawson has long promoted the sense of wellbeing and emotional nourishment that home cooking can provide in busy modern life; her philosophy shines through here. The collection contains over 150 recipes, with something for every reader, whether they're planning a simple solo supper or hosting an elaborate dinner party. The unconventional mix of essays, traditional recipes, and looser narrative recipes is part of the collection's appeal; it provides specific guidance and instruction for certain dishes alongside wide-ranging inspiration for culinary exploration. Some chapters highlight a particular ingredient; other chapters gather inspired dinner menus, including many suggestions for make-ahead vegetables and sides. Readers will find some vegan and gluten-free options, and all of the cake recipes offer a gluten-free alternative. VERDICT This collection of family-friendly dishes that are on repeat in the Lawson household is sure to become a favorite for devotees and new readers alike.--Kelsy Peterson, Brighton Grammar Sch., Melbourne, Australia
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