Alpine cooking Recipes and stories from Europe's grand mountaintops

Review by Booklist Review

Part travelogue and part homage, this compendium of recipes spans the Alpine mountain range and its cuisine with lovingly recorded detail. Erickson spent years researching (and eating and skiing), and her dedication results in a full cultural travel profile of the Alps. Breathtaking landscape photos and enriching details are included in equal measure. Though the Alps are often perceived as a luxurious winter playground, Erickson through the recipes she has selected, in-depth asides, and her stories and tips about skiing and dining there shows that it's accessible for those seeking rustic beauty and a hearty meal before and after a long day on the slopes. Simple cheese soups, handmade pastas, rich meats, towering tortes, and other delights are varied enough to suit any palate. What the cuisine shares is a creativity shaped by the limits of available ingredients owing to the weather and terrain. Recipes are grouped by country (Italy, Austria, Switzerland, France) and rated with the same system used for Alpine ski runs. A foldout map (not seen) indicates specific generation-long family-owned refugios and locations which inspired the recipes. Ideal for dining chair travelers, those planning or reminiscing about time in the Alps, and any cook who seeks to capture the feel and flavor of this diverse mountain region.--Heather Booth Copyright 2010 Booklist

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.

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Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

This generous cookbook and travelogue will have readers booking trips to the Alps of Italy, France, Austria, and Switzerland. Despite Joe Beef coauthor Erickson's protestation that "it's not all about cheese," the food (organized by country) is hearty: a typical Italian soup contains cabbage, lardons, and fontina, and fondue is discussed at length. Brief "snapshots" highlight locals and their favorite trails, while "travel hacks" offer tips, including one to ski or hike to the Lumen Museum of Mountain Photography in Italy's South Tyrolean mountains. Dishes include classics, such as schnitzel and an appealing chestnut and mascarpone Mont Blanc tart, as well as quirky flights of fancy invented by cooks in isolated circumstances, such as a corn bread topped with a scattering of ground popcorn kernels and served with a sphere of butter with a cheese core, and crescent rolls of puff pastry around hazelnut filling from a bakery in a "tiny mountain village." Difficulty is indicated for each, and any special equipment is noted. Fun sidebars include a roundup of scenes from James Bond movies set in the area (where Ian Fleming studied German and fell in love), while a listing of hotels adds a layer of practicality. Erickson's enthusiasm is contagious, as when she writes, "Mountains are not permanent. They are alive." Erickson beautifully captures Alpine food and culture in this standout volume. (Oct.)

(c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved

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Review by Library Journal Review

Is it a cookbook, travel guide, regional history, coffee-table book? There's something for everyone is this colorful and browseable book about the cuisine of the Alps. The focus is on the four countries making up the Alpine Arch: Italy, Austria, Switzerland, and France. Though centering on the regional cuisine, Erickson (Joe Beef: Surviving the Apocalypse) provides history, travel tips, experiences, and perspective for each country with enough details for context and travel without overwhelming readers. Recipes are accompanied by background information that can include anything from the history of the dish, a snapshot of the chef or a local lodge owner, to stories about sliding backwards into a snowbank and catching a lift to a lodge on a tractor to try the dish. Recipes, which are often meat focused, are rated from easy to difficult using traditional European ski run ratings. VERDICT A wide variety of readers, and their friends, will enjoy the kaleidoscope of recipes, photos, history, and anecdotes.--Zebulin Evelhoch, Deschutes P.L., OR

(c) Copyright Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

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INTRODUCTION I was told by a station agent that the ski from Plan Maison station in Cervinia, Italy, to the Riffelalp hamlet above Zermatt, Switzerland, would take "about two hours, if that." But what I should have paid attention to was the sign posted outside the lift ticket booth. "Weather conditions can change rapidly," it said. "Please be particularly careful in event of wind, rain, fog, hail, or snowfall." And so, for the following hours as I made my way across the Italian border at an elevation of nearly 3,900 meters (13,000 feet), the winds increased, the sky turned black, and I couldn't see my ski poles in front of me. I felt I was in the Upside Down, with little ability to orient myself. As I inched along, I encountered few people, which eventually turned into no people. The last person I saw was the Klein Matterhorn lift operator, who told me he was shutting down the lifts due to wind and even if I wanted to go back, I couldn't. I told myself to keep calm as I started the descent. What would normally take twenty minutes for an average skier like me took a lot longer, but I can't tell you the specifics because I was scared, but also angry. Angry at the weather, angry because of the lifts, but mostly angry at myself for doing this--all for the purpose of eating Zürcher Geschnetzeltes (see page 212). Alpine Cooking will take you from the Olympic glory of Italy's Cortina d'Ampezzo, through the towering Dolomites to the northern Italian province of Alto Adige/South Tyrol, past Ötzi the Iceman's place of discovery in Tyrol, Austria, down the slopes of Zermatt, Switzerland, and over to Mont-Blanc, ending in the twenty-one hairpin turns of the Alpe d'Huez in France. This book took six years to research, write, and travel . . . more if you count the incubating stages when I was trying to wrap my head around how to capture the enormity of these Alpine mountains and the food served within, alongside, and atop them. After completing a handful of Alpine trips myself, I wanted to share the experiences with my family and friends, who were inspired by the stories--often about food--I brought back home to Montreal. I yearned to buy books, or even a book, that combined the narrative of my past Alpine experiences with actual how-to tips and on-the-ground knowledge. I wanted a book about everything Alpine: from the best rifugios (mountain huts) to kitsch mountain films (it's a genre!), Swiss folk art, mountain literature, hotels and the families who run them, history, and ghost stories. And, oh yes, recipes too. And maps. Lots of maps. Except that book didn't exist. Sure, there are Frommer's and Lonely Planet and "just the facts" guidebooks. There are also haute cuisine cookbooks written by Alpine chefs. But that wasn't my speed nor my vision. So, I decided to write this book; partly because no one else had done it yet--fit all of this skiable feast under one roof--and partly because I couldn't resist the adventure of what lay ahead. I remember early in my travels taking the chairlift in Alta Badia, Italy. As I ascended toward the church of La Crusc, with the alpenglow of the Dolomites behind it, I looked down, around, and behind me at the rifugios and huts all scattered in the snow like roasted chestnuts, and wondered what set one apart from another? Who served what? Could I ski to all of them? Were they open in the summer, and then could I hike to them? There was so much good eating in just one view. I have skied and hiked mountains in Canada a few times, but rarely in the United States. The Alps are my first love, and they are all I really know. Upon seeing a photograph of my ski-day lunch, say, a Tiroler Gröstl (golden potato hash with local speck, and maybe cabbage and egg) with esoteric Alsatian bottles of wine sprouting out of the hills of snow behind me, my North American friends would comment about the lack of a Chef Boyardee facsimile served on a red plastic tray with a bag of Lay's and a soda. As they recalibrated their idea of what mountain lunch could be, I realized how much of a story there is to tell. And so, I started keeping a journal of the people (chefs, hoteliers, helicopter pilots, winemakers, cheesemakers) I met, the best things I ate, the cultural observations, and the mistakes I made. (So many mistakes.) In trying to see, but moreover, eat as much of the Alpine range (200,000 square kilometers/77,000 square miles) as I could, I sometimes overlooked a detail. It usually included overestimating what is physically possible to do in one day without really considering weather conditions; for example, skiing to a hotel over a country boundary with my sleepover bag (and my laptop--how do you think I wrote this?) on my back through a blizzard. (And yes, those Zürcher Geschnetzeltes were worth it.) Or underestimating the amount of time it would take to drive from place to place, not counting the multiple stops for anything that looked remotely delicious. Even after so much Alpine traveling time, this book is still only an Alpine primer--a two-dimensional account designed to inspire you. I came back from the Alps with approximately 175 recipes stuffed in my mind and proverbial snowsuit. Of those, I whittled down this collection to more than 75 must-haves, either because they are valuable and unique additions to any arsenal, or because the story of them was intrinsic to my Alpine trip. On the foldout pages, you will also find four country maps identifying the mountain-hut locations that inspired the corresponding recipes of my Alpine tour. And I feel I've barely scratched the surface here; indeed, I can imagine traveling the rest of my life, writing books of this size, and I still wouldn't come close to capturing the magic of the mountains. Perhaps I'm just getting started. I hope you cook from this book, sure, but the delicious and authentic recipes are just an excuse, really--a trail of little crumbs, and okay, fine, maybe some Reblochon too--to lure you into the mountains and to follow my journey, to encourage you to breathe in the mountain air. Many of these recipes are classics of mountain cuisine--dishes you'll find in almost every inn of an area. Others reflect the talent and individual creativity of chefs I've met along the way. Still others were created at home, away from the Alps, and dedicated to the regions that inspired them. But all are rooted firmly in the Alps. Excerpted from Alpine Cooking: Recipes and Stories from Europe's Grand Mountaintops [a Cookbook] by Meredith Erickson All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.

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