Amá A modern Tex-Mex kitchen

"The only thing authentic about Tex-Mex cuisine is that it isn't authentic," writes Centeno (Bäco), the chef-owner of L.A. restaurants Bäco Mercat and Bar Amá, in this superb take on the cuisine. He proves his point with the inclusion of such classics as tortilla soup; chicken-fried steak with bacon gravy; Tex-Mex roast turkey, which involves brining the bird in a combination of beer, dark brown sugar, chiles and herbs, then basting with chile butter; and a decadent take on the classic fried ice cream--a vanilla bean semifreddo cloaked in crushed cereal and fried, then bathed in a dulce de leche sauce. Imaginative riffs include turmeric-finger chicken fajitas; beef cheek barbacoa enchiladas; lobster diablo, which incorporates crema, hot sauce, cheddar and Monterey Jack cheeses; and corn quesadillas with poblano, cilantro, and greens onions that gets a creamy boost from buffalo mozzarella, paired with a sharp white cheddar. Centeno's artful and accessible mix of high and low techniques (Mom's Rice is a riff on red rice that gets a boost from V8; Velveeta is a key component in his queso) emphasize flavor over pretentiousness. Anyone thinking of taking a stab at Tex-Mex would do well to pick this up. (Oct.)

With the ascent of the many regional Mexican cuisines, Tex-Mex has typically been left far behind. In this second book by Centeno (Baco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles), the aim is to re-create family dishes from the author's childhood in San Antonio, where his grandfather started Centeno Market, while adding a few modern Southern California touches. The book, coauthored by food journalist Hallock, leads off with a larder section covering homemade spice blends, salsas, pickles, and sauces. There's also a chapter on breakfast, two sections of main dishes, and one on vegetables, appetizers, and dessert. The recipes are well written, designed with home cooks in mind. One design quibble: recipe titles are laid out vertically on the left side of each page, so all recipes on the right-hand side of the book have their titles somewhat obscured in the crease. Otherwise, gorgeous photos of most dishes are found throughout. VERDICT If you are in the market for some delicious and authentic Tex-Mex cooking, this collection would be an optimal place to start.--Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. Libs., Oxford, OH