Review by Booklist Review
When Risen isn't editing the New York Times op-ed page, he's off with the booze. Researching it, tasting it one imagines him perpetually nose down in a wide-bottomed Glencairn glass, an "ideal vehicle for sampling" and writing about it. His latest book follows the format of his earlier American Whiskey, Bourbon & Rye (2015), with definitions plus a history of the leading distilleries and information on age, proof, and cost, all of which are directed to the whiskey fan who knows a bit and would like to know more. It's the reporter side of his work that holds special interest, as when he tracks the mysterious provenance of Costco's, Trader Joe's, and Total Wine's single malts. Or tells of the distiller who trained 500 parrots to shout its brand name. His descriptions of taste and aftertaste are helpful but occasionally fanciful, as when he speaks of one as "disciplined and slightly austere, like a portly ex-marine." He does tackle the most profound and troubling question bedeviling single-malt drinkers: Should you add ice to your glass? His wise answer: Of course unless you don't want to.--Don Crinklaw Copyright 2018 Booklist
From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review
Similar in tone and approach to his 2013 American Whiskey, Bourbon & Rye, New York Times deputy op-ed editor Risen covers everything in this entertaining and immersive guide to one of the world's favorite liquors. The volume is organized alphabetically, with Risen offering brief but specific tasting notes for more than 330 single malt whiskies (blends aren't covered), along with profiles of distilleries, price ranges, and ratings. What sets Risen's work apart from similar references is the specificity of his reviews: Aarberg An Ora, for example, displays "a burst of menthol and wood char up front, followed by milk chocolate, grilled meat and sea salt." Not all reviews are glowing: Bladnoch's Samsara receives two out of four stars, but Risen notes that it's "overpriced and under-polished" for the price. Risen's entries go deep, enabling readers to find the bottle that's right for them or a friend (recommendations for budget bottles, introductory scotches, and gifts for aficionados are included), even if it's from Trader Joe's, which he gives one and a half stars. Regardless of where the whiskeys fall on the single malt spectrum, Risen and his tasting panel have created a definitive reference on the topic. This is a must-have guide for novices and aficionados alike. (Oct.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.
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