The book of greens A cook's compendium of 40 varieties, from arugula to watercress, with more than 175 recipes

Louis, a Food & Wine Best New Chef and chef and owner of restaurants in Portland, Ore., and Los Angeles, and Squires, a winner of the M.F.K. Fisher Award for food writing, have written a comprehensive guide to over 40 varieties of leafy greens. The authors include helpful tips on how to choose, clean, and store the greens, along with often surprising nutritional information (for example, chrysanthemum leaves have more potassium per serving than a banana). The inspiring and unusual recipes make this book a great addition to anyone's cookbook library. There are simple salads with complex flavors, such as mustard greens, aged gouda, and cashews, and carnivore-friendly main dishes that include chicken and pork belly paella with watercress and Yemeni braised beef short ribs with nettles. Cultures are mashed together in some of the recipes, with promising results: miso straciatella soup and an Italian-style kimchi made with Swiss chard both marry the flavors of Asia and Italy in a way that would make Marco Polo proud. Even a straightforward-sounding recipe such as Swiss chard frittata is bumped up to the next level with the addition of crème fraîche, pancetta, and kimchi. For the CSA-produce subscribers and enthusiastic farmers market shoppers who find themselves staring cluelessly at piles of unknown greens each week, Louis and Squires's book is a boon. (Apr.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.

This informative guide to greens from chef Louis (Pasta by Hand) and freelance writer Squires (Coolhaus Ice Cream Book) has a kinship with excellent titles such as Jennifer McLagan's Bitter, Diane Morgan's Roots, and Michelle McKenzie's Dandelion and Quince. These 150 recipes (e.g., radicchio hand pies with quince paste and blue cheese, sake-braised Chinese celery, and deviled eggs with dandelion greens and cornichon) showcase dozens of plants and herbs, including lesser-known varieties of celtuce, nettles, spigarello (leaf broccoli), and water spinach. This volume is arranged alphabetically by ingredient, and a handy list near the front makes it easy to browse for individual courses, vegetarian dishes, and even butter lettuce panna cotta. VERDICT Recommended for anyone who wants to explore unfamiliar greens from grocery stores and farmers markets. © Copyright 2017. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

pesto 101  One of the greatest uses of greens is making pesto. The classic Genoese sauce is made with basil, nuts, garlic, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. But it's not just for basil. You can use countless greens to make a pesto, and it's a great way to add fresh flavors to anything from pasta to soup to flatbreads.  Just keep in mind a few things:   Always use oil.  Add lemon juice of vinegar for brightness.  Use garlic to taste.  Bitter greens can work well as long as they are properly balanced with fat and acid.  For the best texture, stick to the less-watery types that I have suggested.  NOTE: I've aligned my favorite flavor combinations (i.e., cilantro + pumpkin seeds + Cotija cheese), but feel free to mix and match!  follow this basic recipe, and you have pesto.  Combine 1/2 cup nuts, 2 cloves garlic, and 1-1/2 teaspoons salt in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. With a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl, then add the greens, 1/2 cup [120 ml] of olive oil, and the cheese or dairy. Continue to pulse, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until the greens are coarsely chopped. Turn the processor back on and add another 1/4 cup [60 ml] olive oil and any remaining ingredients, processing until the mixture is finely chopped but not fully pureed. Turn the food processor off and scrape down the sides of the bowl several times during the process. The ingredients should be fully incorporated, with enough oil to hold the sauce together without being runny.  To store, transfer to an airtight container and drizzle just enough oil over the top to cover. This will prevent the pesto from oxidizing and turning brown. Use immediately, refrigerate for up to 4 days, or freeze for up to 1 month. To thaw, place in the refrigerator overnight or until fully thawed. Excerpted from The Book of Greens: A Cook's Compendium by Jenn Louis, Kathleen Squires All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.