Deep South Four seasons on back roads

Paul Theroux

Book - 2015

"One of the most acclaimed travel writers of our time turns his unflinching eye on an American South too often overlooked. Paul Theroux has spent fifty years crossing the globe, adventuring in the exotic, seeking the rich history and folklore of the far away. Now, for the first time, in his tenth travel book, Theroux explores a piece of America--the Deep South. He finds there a paradoxical place, full of incomparable music, unparalleled cuisine, and yet also some of the nation's worst schools, housing, and unemployment rates. It's these parts of the South, so often ignored, that have caught Theroux's keen traveler's eye. On road trips spanning four seasons, wending along rural highways, Theroux visits gun shows and ...small-town churches, laborers in Arkansas, and parts of Mississippi where they still call the farm up the road 'the plantation.' He talks to mayors and social workers, writers and reverends, the working poor and farming families--the unsung heroes of the South, the people who, despite it all, never left, and also those who returned home to rebuild a place they could never live without. From the writer whose 'great mission has always been to transport us beyond that reading chair, to challenge himself--and thus, to challenge us' (Boston Globe), Deep South is an ode to a region, vivid and haunting, full of life and loss alike"--

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Subjects
Published
Boston : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2015.
Language
English
Main Author
Paul Theroux (author)
Item Description
"An Eamon Dolan book."
"Photos by Steve McCurry"-- Book jacket.
Physical Description
441 pages, 16 unnumbered pages of plates ; 24 cm
Bibliography
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN
9780544323520
  • Fall : "You gotta be going there to get there"
  • Interlude : the taboo word
  • Winter : "Ones born today don't know how it was"
  • Interlude : the paradoxes of Faulkner
  • Spring : redbud in bloom
  • Interlude : the fantastications of Southern fiction
  • Summer : the odor of sun-heated roads.
Review by New York Times Review

IT'S BEEN 40 YEARS since the publication of Paul Theroux's "The Great Railway Bazaar," a vivid, witty, hugely entertaining account of his solo four-month journey, mostly by rail, from London to Tokyo to Moscow and back again. He had already published more than half a dozen novels and a collection of stories by the time that book appeared. (He has said he wrote it simply because he'd run out of ideas for fiction, a failure of imagination that was clearly fleeting; he has published some two dozen volumes of fiction since.) When "The Great Railway Bazaar" became a best seller, it helped establish its author as the best-known American travel writer of his time. Over the intervening years, Theroux has written accounts of similarly improbable journeys through Central and South America, Britain, China, Oceania, the Mediterranean and Africa. Each of them, as he said of the first, is "a thick book with lots of people in it and lots of dialogue and no sightseeing." He is armed with bottomless curiosity, a novelist's eye for setting and a novelist's uncanny ear for recreating conversations. His admirers have compared him to his literary fellow travelers Anthony Trollope, Charles Dickens, Mark Twain and his mentor and sometime antagonist, V. S. Naipaul. His detractors accuse him of being too much at the center of things, tossing off one-line dismissals of whole nations and sometimes displaying a prickliness his own publisher once tried to soften by calling him "endearingly irascible." Theroux himself has summarized the appeal of books like his: "Most travel narratives ... describe the miseries and splendors of going from one remote place to another. The quest, the getting there, the difficulty of the road, is the story; the journey not the arrival matters, and most of the time the traveler - the traveler's mood, especially - is the subject of the whole business. I have made a career out of this sort of slogging and selfportraiture, and so have many others in the old laborious look-at-me way that informs travel writing." In "Deep South," Theroux set out to do something different. This time, he would travel within his own country, through some of the poorest sections of the rural South - the Lowcountry of South Carolina, Alabama's Black Belt, the Mississippi Delta and the Arkansas Ozarks. Instead of climbing aboard a train or pushing off in a kayak, he would drive, and rather than pick a destination, he would meander, visiting and revisiting the same "smaller places and huddled towns" through four seasons. A road trip in America is a "picnic," he writes. "In the travel narrative of struggle, I was not the struggler. I was the bystander or the eavesdropper, recording other people's pain or pleasure. I knew very little discomfort, never sensed I was in any danger. No ordeals, few dramas." The result is a leisurely, even languid book, reiterative and sometimes simply forgetful. We're told twice why so many motels are owned by members of the Patel clan from Gujarat, and are twice offered some of Nelson Algren's well-worn advice to travelers: "Never eat at a place called Mom's, never play cards with a man called Doc." One gun show is pretty much like the next, and the author chooses to visit three of them. I lost count of the number of times he suggests that a crossroads cluster of beat-up buildings reminds him of villages he had known in Africa. Discursive asides about everything from the many meanings of the "N-word" to the moral failings of William Faulkner slow the narrative. Although a portfolio of color photographs by Steve McCurry appears at the back of the book, there are no maps, so it's hard to remember where we've been or understand where we're headed. Yet Theroux's eye for landscape remains as sharp as ever. "Some days in the Delta," he writes, "the river was the only vivid feature in a landscape that seemed otherwise lifeless - no leaves stirring, no people in motion, cattle like paper cutouts, hawks as black as marks of punctuation in the sky; the monumental stillness of the rural South in a hot noontime, all of it like a foxed and sun-faded masterpiece of flat paint, an old picture of itself." but in the end it's Theroux's remarkable gift for getting strangers to reveal themselves that makes going along for this ride worthwhile. "The people are hospitable," he observes; "they are talkers, and if they take to you, they'll tell you their stories." His storytellers include people for whom the Civil War still seems like yesterday and others for whom the promises of the civil rights movement already seem like ancient history. There are black preachers and sullen white bigots, dirt farmers and factory workers who have seen their jobs disappear, many of them encountered in establishments with names like Doe's Eat Place and O Taste and See. The cumulative effect of their testimony echoes the author's finding that for all the warmth and courtesy they showed him, for all their pride and for all the richness of their culture, "these poor folk are poorer in their way ... and less able to manage and more hopeless than many people I had traveled among in distressed parts of Africa and Asia." For Theroux, the fact that the federal government and private philanthropies are willing to provide aid to unfortunates overseas but seem uninterested in improving the plight of those at home is evidence that "though America in its greatness is singular, it resembles the rest of the world in its failures." ? GEOFFREY C. WARD'S latest book, written with Ken Burns, is "The Roosevelts: An Intimate History."

Copyright (c) The New York Times Company [October 4, 2015]
Review by Booklist Review

*Starred Review* The idea that Theroux is one of the preeminent travel writers today needs neither proof nor explanation at this point in his distinguished career, but just in case some doubters do exist out there and raise their voices in objection to such an accolade, his latest travel memoir should quiet even the strongest of reservations. On several trips through the American South, a place Theroux admits he was unfamiliar with and thus knew little about, and as he eschewed visits to major cities and tourist attractions, choosing instead country roads (obviously also avoiding planes and airports), his experiences reinforced his conviction that the truest way to travel is the old way, the proud highway, the rolling road. His intended interviewees, the people he wanted to talk to and learn from about the nature of being a southerner, were the underclass. Who best would know what distinctive southern life was like than the submerged twenty percent. Contradictions abound in the South he explored, but just as those conflicts were the enticement for his repeated visits, they also represent the allure of this rigorous, poised, serious, and pulsing-with-life exploration of all aspects of the multisided American South. High-Demand Backstory: Theroux's books always appear on the best-seller list, and his latest may prove to be his most popular book yet.--Hooper, Brad Copyright 2015 Booklist

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

Travel writer Theroux (Ghost Train to the Eastern Star) finds the traveling easier and his insights more penetrating in this engrossing passage through the South. Celebrating the wonders of American driving-no more rattle-trap trains or jam-packed buses-the New England native recounts several road trips from South Carolina through Arkansas, circling back to revisit places and people in a way he couldn't on his treks across foreign continents. His relaxed schedule lets him forget the journey and, instead, immerse himself in destinations that seem both familiar and strange ("Jesus is lord-we buy and sell guns," reads a billboard). Avoiding tourist traps, Theroux seeks out gun shows, church services, seedy motels, and downscale diners such as Doe's Eat Place, in Greenville, Miss.; he insistently probes the legacy of slavery and Jim Crow, and the appalling poverty of back-road towns abandoned by industry. All this emerges through vivid, novelistic reportage as he gently prods people for their stories, reveling in their musical dialects, mapping the intersections of personal experience and tragic history that give the South "a great overwhelming sadness that [he] couldn't fathom." Free of the sense of alienation that marked his recent travelogues, this luminous sojourn is Theroux's best outing in years. Color photos. Agent: Andrew Wylie, Wylie Agency. (Sept.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.

(c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Review by Library Journal Review

Theroux's (The Mosquito Coast; Ghost Train on the Eastern Star) title takes us on a trip to a part of the South few seek out. He avoids big cities such as Atlanta and New Orleans and heads to the Deep South: Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, -Arkansas, Georgia, and South Carolina. The author visits, several times in some cases, a number of the poorest cities and communities in the nation. The result is a socially conscious travelog, with a good deal of Southern history thrown in, including literature, race relations, and economics. Theroux writes of the people he meets with sympathy and verve, and though many seem to fit Southern stereotypes, they still come across as genuine on the page. It's the people of the Deep South-from the frat boys and Southern preachers to African American farmers and local officials-working to save their small towns who bring this book to life. VERDICT A literary travelog that will interest readers of Southern history and literature and anyone with an interest in American urban history and the plight of the poor. [See Prepub Alert, 3/30/15.]-Sara Miller Rohan, Archive Librarian, Atlanta © Copyright 2015. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

(c) Copyright Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Review by Kirkus Book Review

An acclaimed travel writer and novelist's engrossing account of his journey through the Deep South. During his long, fruitful career, Theroux (Mr. Bones: Twenty Stories, 2014, etc.) has traveled to many exotic locations all over the world. Yet 50 years after he began as a travel writer, he was suddenly seized with a longing to travel through the hominess of the American South. Driving along rural highways and deliberately bypassing "buoyant cities and obvious pleasures," he sought out the sights and people that he believed would help him understand a remarkable but profoundly troubled region. The green landscapes of the Deep South still included tobacco and cotton fields, both of which stood as reminders of the "persistence of history." Even the many gun shows that Theroux visited seemed to recall the Old South's preoccupation with defending not only its soil, but also its values against incursions from the North. For African-Americans, churches still served as spaces of "focus and respite from a hostilemajority [white] culture." Memories of slavery and segregation even persisted in the geography, with whites living in the hills and mountains and blacks primarily inhabiting the agricultural flatlands. What stirred Theroux the most, however, was how so many of the places he observed resembled "what [was] often thought of as the Third World." Despite encounters with lingering racism and deeply entrenched social and economic problems, the author found a warm welcome almost everywhere he went. Everyonefrom barbers and welfare families to preachers and politiciansshowered him with kindness, generosity, and, more often than not, stories. Broken by history but rich in culture and spirit, the South that Theroux came to know was "a dream, with all a dream's distortions and satisfactions." As thoughtful as it is evocative, the book offers insight into a significant region and its people and customs. An epically compelling travel memoir. Copyright Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Copyright (c) Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Be Blessed: "Ain't No Strangers Here" In Tuscaloosa, Alabama, on a hot Sunday morning in early October, I sat in my car in the parking lot of a motel studying a map, trying to locate a certain church. I was not looking for more religion or to be voyeuristically stimulated by travel. I was hoping for music and uplift, sacred steel and celebration, and maybe a friend.      I slapped the map with the back of my hand. I must have looked befuddled.      "You lost, baby?"      I had driven from my home in New England, a three-day road trip to another world, the warm green states of the Deep South I had longed to visit, where "the past is never dead," so the man famously said. "It's not even past." Later that month, a black barber snipping my hair in Greensboro, speaking of its racial turmoil today, laughed and said to me, in a sort of paraphrase of that writer whom he'd not heard of and never read, "History is alive and well here."      A church in the South is the beating heart of the community, the social center, the anchor of faith, the beacon of light, the arena of music, the gathering place, offering hope, counsel, welfare, warmth, fellowship, melody, harmony, and snacks. In some churches, snake handling, foot washing, and glossolalia too, the babbling in tongues like someone spitting and gargling in a shower stall under jets of water.      Poverty is well dressed in churches, and everyone is approachable. As a powerful and revealing cultural event, a Southern church service is on a par with a college football game or a gun show, and there are many of them. People say, "There's a church on every corner." That is also why, when a church is bombed -- and this was the fiftieth anniversary of the bombing of the 16th Street Baptist Church in Birmingham, where four little girls were murdered -- the heart is torn out of a congregation, and a community plunges into pure anguish.      "You lost?"      Her voice had been so soft I had not realized she'd been talking to me. It was the woman in the car beside me, a sun-faded sedan with a crushed and cracked rear bumper. She was sipping coffee from a carryout paper cup, her car door swung open for the breeze. She was in her late forties, perhaps, with blue-gray eyes, and in contrast to the poor car she was dressed beautifully in black silk with lacy sleeves, a big flower pinned to her shoulder, wearing a white hat with a veil that she lifted with the back of her hand when she raised the coffee cup to her pretty lips, leaving a puckered kiss-daub of purple lipstick on the rim.      I said I was a stranger here.      "Ain't no strangers here, baby," she said, and gave me a merry smile. The South, I was to find, was one of the few places I'd been in the world where I could use the word "merry" without sarcasm. "I'm Lucille."      I told her my name and where I wanted to go, the Cornerstone Full Gospel Baptist Church, on Brooksdale Drive.      She was quick to say that it was not her church, but that she knew the one. She said the name of the pastor, Bishop Earnest Palmer, began to give me directions, and then said, "Tell you what."      One hand tipping her veil, she stared intently at the rim of her cup. She paused and drank the last of her coffee while I waited for another word.      "Shoot, it's easier for me to take you there," she said, then used the tip of her tongue to work a fleck of foam from her upper lip. "I don't have to meet my daughter for another hour. Just follow me, Mr. Paul."      I dogged the crushed rear bumper of her small car for about three miles, making unexpected turns, into and out of subdivisions of small bungalows that had been so hollowed out by a devastating tornado the previous year, they could accurately be described as fistulated and tortured. In the midst of this scoured landscape, on a suburban street, I saw the church steeple, and Lucille slowed down and pointed, and waved me on.      As I passed her to enter the parking lot, I thanked her, and she gave me a wonderful smile, and just before she drove on she said, "Be blessed."      That seemed to be the theme in the Deep South: kindness, generosity, a welcome. I had found it often in my traveling life in the wider world, but I found so much more of it here that I kept going, because the good will was like an embrace. Yes, there is a haunted substratum of darkness in Southern life, and though it pulses through many interactions, it takes a long while to perceive it, and even longer to understand.      I sometimes had long days, but encounters like the one with Lucille always lifted my spirits and sent me deeper into the South, to out-of-the-way churches like the Cornerstone Full Gospel, and to places so obscure, such flyspecks on the map, they were described in the rural way as "You gotta be going there to get there."      After circulating awhile in the Deep South I grew fond of the greetings, the hello of the passerby on the sidewalk, and the casual endearments, being called baby, honey, babe, buddy, dear, boss, and often, sir. I liked "What's going on, bubba?" and "How ya'll doin'?" The good cheer and greetings in the post office or the store. It was the reflex of some blacks to call me "Mr. Paul" after I introduced myself with my full name ("a habit from slavery" was one explanation). This was utterly unlike the North, or anywhere in the world I'd traveled. "Raging politeness," this extreme friendliness is sometimes termed, but even if that is true, it is better than the cold stare or the averted eyes or the calculated snub I was used to in New England.      "One's supreme relation," Henry James once remarked about traveling in America, "was one's relation to one's country." With this in mind, after having seen the rest of the world, I had planned to take one long trip through the South in the autumn, before the presidential election of 2012, and write about it. But when that trip was over I wanted to go back, and I did so, leisurely in the winter, renewing acquaintances. That was not enough. I returned in the spring, and again in the summer, and by then I knew that the South had me, sometimes in a comforting embrace, occasionally in its frenzied and unrelenting grip. Wendell Turley A week or more before I'd met Lucille, past ten o'clock on a dark night, I had pulled up outside a minimart and gas station near the town of Gadsen in northeastern Alabama.      "Kin Ah he'p you," a man said from the window of his pickup truck. He had that tipsy querying Deep South manner of speaking that was so ponderous, fuddled beyond reason. I half expected him to plop forward drunk after he'd asked the question. But he was being friendly. Stepping out of his darkened, oddly painted pickup and gaining his footing, he swallowed a little, his lower lip drooping and damp. He finished his sentence, "In inny way?"      I said I was looking for a place to stay.      He held a can of beer but it was unopened. He had oyster eyes and was jowly and, though sober, looked unsteady. He ignored my appeal. I was thinking how now and then the gods of travel seem to deliver you into the hands of an apparently oversimple stereotype, which means you have to look very closely to make sure this is not the case -- the comic, drawling Southerner, loving talk for its own sake.      "Ah mo explain something to you," he said.      "Yes?"      "Ah mo explain the South to you." Excerpted from Deep South by Paul Theroux All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.