Wild idea Buffalo and family in a difficult land

South Dakota novelist and memoirist O'Brien (The Indian Agent, 2004, etc.) delivers a bracing portrait of the pleasuresand considerable painsof ranch life on the lone prairie. "The best definition of success on the Great Plains is the ability to move from one disappointment to the next without losing your enthusiasm," writes the author, who, long ago, had the odd idea that he might just try his hand at raising buffalo"a unique species that thrived only in the center of the North American continent"in somewhat the same way as one might raise cattle or sheep. Underscore somewhat: O'Brien and his partner realized early on that becoming just any old livestock producers would yield just any old livestock, and "neither Jill nor I wanted anything to do with forcing buffalo through the cattle production model." Instead, working with like-minded friends, O'Brien resolved to produce organic, free-range bison before those words were current. Passages of his memoir are not for the squeamish, especially those involving the evisceration, joint loosening and beheading of captive animals. Overall, however, this is a deeply humane book that looks at ranching as a sustainable enterprise, a way of life more than an economic engine. The author's critique of the cycle of debt, techno-lust and more debt that the economic engine calls for will be both familiar and welcome to fans of Wendell Berry and Gretel Ehrlich. The best parts of the book, though, are O'Brien's portraits of the people of the Plains, such as a friend and partner who, self-taught and immensely hungry for both knowledge and experience, still melts down at the prospect of driving in a big city in which he has no business. There may be plenty of disappointments out on the Plains, but this book is not one of them. Copyright Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.