Meat eater Adventures from the life of an American hunter

Steven Rinella

Book - 2012

Steven Rinella grew up in rural Michigan, the son of a hunter who taught his sons to love the natural world the way he did. As a child, Rinella devoured stories of the American wilderness. He shot his first squirrel at eight and his first deer at thirteen. He chose the colleges he went to by their proximity to good hunting ground, and he experimented with living solely off wild meat. As an adult, he feeds his family from the food he hunts. Meat Eater chronicles Rinella's lifelong relationship with nature and hunting through the lens of ten hunts in the remotest corners of North America. Through each story, he grapples with themes such as the role of the hunter in shaping America, the vanishing frontier, the ethics of killing, the allur...e of hunting trophies, the responsibilities that human predators have to their prey, and the disappearance of the hunter himself as Americans lose their connection with the way their food finds its way to their tables.--From publisher description.

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Subjects
Published
New York : Spiegel & Grau c2012.
Language
English
Main Author
Steven Rinella (-)
Edition
1st ed
Item Description
Includes index.
Physical Description
244 p., [16] p. of plates : col. ill. ; 25 cm
ISBN
9780385529815
  • Chapter 1. Standing Ground
  • Chapter 2. Stirring the Limbs
  • Tasting Notes: Squirrel
  • Chapter 3. Tangle Stake
  • Tasting Notes: Beaver
  • Chapter 4. Low and to the Right
  • Tasting Notes: Heart
  • Chapter 5. The Otter
  • Tasting Notes: Jerky
  • Chapter 6. Communion
  • Tasting Notes: Black Bear
  • Chapter 7. Playing with Food
  • Tasting Notes: Salmon
  • Chapter 8. Freeze-up
  • Tasting Notes: Deer
  • Chapter 9. The Head on My Shelf
  • Tasting Notes: Camp Meat
  • Chapter 10. Killing Proper
  • Tasting Notes: Mountain Lion
  • Chapter 11. The Remains
  • Acknowledgments
  • Research Notes and Suggestions for Further Reading
  • Index
Review by New York Times Review

THE 18th-century English theologian William Paley once wrote that the principle that will keep a man in everlasting ignorance is contempt prior to investigation. What a loser. Truth be told, I have lived a life plenty comfortable with my disdain toward hunters and hunting. And then along comes Steven Rinella and his revelatory memoir, "Meat Eater," to ruin everything. Unless you count the eternal pursuit of the unmetered parking space, I am not a hunter. I am, however, on a constant quest for good writing. "Meat Eater" begins with a promise - "This book has a hell of a lot going for it, simply because it's a hunting story" - and then delivers ceaselessly, like a Domino's guy with O.C.D. This is survival of the most literate. Graphic, sure, but less so than an episode of "CSI," and with more believable emoting. Early on, Rinella, the author of "American Buffalo: In Search of a Lost Icon" and the host of his own show on the Sportsman Channel, explains why he hunts: "I was hungry in the wilderness and here came a few tons' worth of caribou, 50 yards out and closing fast. In a moment like that, there is no time for emotional dawdling. It is a time for unerring judgment. It is a time for speed, both mental and physical. It is a time for action and precision and discipline. It is a time to do what millions of years' worth of evolution built us to do. And in the act of doing it, you experience the unconfused purity of being a human predator, stripped of everything that is nonessential. In that moment of impending violence and death, you are gifted a beautiful glimpse of life." I'm sure the reference to evolution wrecks it for Sarah Palin and her fellow field-dressers, but this - genuine passion, humbly conveyed - is when nonfiction slaughters fiction and hangs it over its mantle. The text is relentlessly vivid and clear, and not just when recounting a river otter eating a bluegill: "It hissed at me when it noticed me, the sound coming through a mouthful of fish as though the animal were playing a harmonica." The commitment, effort and ardor are unflinching. What Rinella does to prepare a muskrat trap when he's in fifth grade takes five more steps and is infinitely more loving than whatever I did as a fifth grader to break in my baseball glove. With every chapter, you get a history lesson, a hunting lesson, a nature lesson and a cooking lesson, and most of the chapters end with "tasting notes" on various game. Rinella's palate is discerning. He describes the gristle of a beaver tail as "a combination of beef jerky and Styrofoam." Readers will never ask themselves, "What is he talking about?" The only question they might have is, "Why isn't this guy the head of the N.R.A.?" As a 21st-century human being who hunts, Rinella can be as conflicted as a corner man in the 12 th round of a fight he knows he should have stopped in the ninth. He later kills the same river otter ("I made about 50 bucks so that some lady I'd never meet in a country that I'd probably never visit could have a nice coat"), but the sins against nature are rare, and in the hands of a less gifted writer, the less appetizing parts of this book would seem thoughtless, barbaric and irredeemable. But again and again, his descriptive powers trump gruesomeness. Here's how he depicts wandering into a mountain lion kill: "At the end of the drag marks was a dead buck with picked-clean bones that had been buried with leaves and dirt beneath a scrubby little oak. The hide was in pieces but still connected to the carcass here and there, like a person who passed out drunk in bed without getting completely free of his clothes." Some things I still do not understand, like the need to turn a dead bear's head toward the camera before your buddy snaps a photo. Some things I will never understand, like choosing to spend months anywhere with your family, let alone in the woods. Rinella ends his book with what might be an audacious claim: "To abhor hunting is to hate the place from which you came, which is akin to hating yourself in some distant, abstract way." This is a tough sell, if he were selling. But he's just sharing, and for the reader brave enough to set aside his contempt prior to investigation, "Meat Eater" offers an overabundance to savor. JUSTLY or unjustly, "My Heart Is an Idiot," Davy Rothbart 's first book of essays, labors under three different comparisons: 1) his pieces against one another, which is the cross-reference to bear of any collection; 2) this book against the organic riotousness of his creation, Found magazine, an accumulation of notes, letters and photos that have been discarded by others; and 3) "My Heart" against "Meat Eater," both of which happen to be reviewed in the same space by the same guy. "My Heart Is an Idiot" is primarily an inventory, however frank, of women Rothbart fell in love with from across a bar, picked up, discarded and then picked up again, recounted in longing, rueful prose. A boyfriend of a girlfriend's mom "was wearing a nice suit but his face was sunburnt and dirty, giving him the vibe of a homeless guy at a job interview." A dead elk Rothbart and another motorist have to move off the highway is as "heavy as a coffin filled with ice." When the prose works, it sings. When it doesn't, it passes out face first on a friend's couch. It seems far-fetched that Rothbart, a frequent contributor to "This American Life," would consistently stumble upon characters so memorable and fully formed, let alone remember entire conversations. But such is the modern personal essay from the House of Ira Glass. It should be called something else, other than nonfiction. "Re-enactmention," perhaps. Wherein a predominantly true story is made more complicated in the service of art. There's gratuitous naughtiness, the liberal dollop of pop-culture references and needless versions of a phrase like "wet eyes" when "tear-filled" would do. But you can overlook all of that in a good story, and there are more than a few. "Human Snowball," in which Rothbart surprises a bartender in Buffalo for Valentine's Day, should have been the template for the other tales of his self-repairing heart. "How I Got These Boots," his encounter with a hitchhiker on the way to the Grand Canyon, is a three-page demonstration of less is more. In his most impressive piece, "The Strongest Man in the World," the pursuit is justice. And the relationship with the opposite sex is refreshingly platonic, because this time, it's with the mother of a friend who's in prison for a murder he probably didn't commit. A lot happens to Rothbart and around him, because he continually seeks out people, places and things. He is adventurous in a sedentary world. At times, he telegraphs the all too serendipitous reunions with those he meets on his travels, and you can see them coming from paragraphs away. But when he's en route - by car, by truck, by bus - he's at his most appealing. "New York, New York," about a two-day trip on Greyhound from Chicago to Manhattan immediately after 9/11, is the best example, if for no other reason than he is moving away from the girl, not toward her. And there is no bar. Mercifully, it has been raised. 'In that moment of impending violence and death, you are gifted a beautiful glimpse of life.' Bill Scheft is a writer for "Late Show With David Letterman." His most recent novel, "Everything Hurts," is being made into a film.

Copyright (c) The New York Times Company [November 11, 2012]
Review by Booklist Review

Rinella hosts two cable-television shows and has written for everything from Bowhunter to O (Oprah's magazine). If hunting has fewer participants and advocates than ever before, Rinella is doing his best to reverse the trend. He is informative, passionate, literary, funny, and, well, cool. Perhaps what's most remarkable about his work is that it offers readers who only hunt at the local grocery store the opportunity to enjoy a vicarious adventure or two in the world of outdoor protein gathering. Rinella walks readers through his years of living off the land, from his youth as a trapper in Michigan through his adult life as a professional hunter and adventurer. Throughout are Tasting Notes, or thoughts on the consumption of wild game. There's a section on squirrel, another on eating heart, and even one on beaver tail. Ewww? Yes, but more often Rinella will pique one's interest. Also important to note is his advocacy of hunting and fishing ethics. Rinella's audience will continue to grow, based on his thoughtful writing.--Lukowsky, Wes Copyright 2010 Booklist

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

Rinella (American Buffalo: In Search of a Lost Icon) chronicles his evolution as a hunter (and trapper and fisherman) from shooting squirrels with a BB gun during his Michigan childhood to hunting deer in "the wildest corner of the Wild West" or tracking Dall sheep in the mountains of Alaska, while his wife and son are home in the civilized environs of New York City. Woven into Rinella's thoughtful prose detailing his outdoor adventures (or misadventures, in some cases) are historical, ecological, or technical observations dealing with the landscape, the animals, or the manner in which the game is harvested. Also, almost every chapter is finished with short "Tasting Notes" that outline the culinary dos and don'ts for meat from game like squirrel, black bear, and mountain lion. Rinella has a passion for hunting and wilderness that comes across in his writing, and even if you don't agree with his ideas on hunting lions with dogs or catch-and-release fishing you can't help pondering the arguments he makes. And that seems to be the point of the book, to make you think-about your relationship with nature, about what you eat and why you eat it-and if that's Rinella's motivation, this book succeeds. B&w photos. (Sept.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.

(c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Review by Kirkus Book Review

TV host and outdoorsman Rinella (American Buffalo: In Search of a Lost Icon, 2008, etc.) contemplates the hunter's place in modern society while reliving his favorite hunting trips. Before committing to the writing life, the author made a serious attempt at carving out a career as a fur trapper like his frontier hero Daniel Boone. Even though that endeavor fell through, the kid who grew up bagging squirrels, muskrats and beavers would not abandon the hunt. Instead, he found other ways to devote much of his life to stalking bighorn sheep, black bears, mountain lions and the like. At one point, he even managed to successfully split his time between college and subsistence hunting. While Rinella has taken more than a few trophies along the way, his excursions into the great outdoors have mainly been about feasting on wild game at the conclusion of each hunt--and he's eager to share. Relentlessly descriptive and endlessly evocative "tasting guides" at the close of each chapter help armchair hunters get a sense of what it might be like digging into their own heaping plate of camp meat, deer hearts or sun-dried jerky. Depending on the palate, readers will find these gamey recipes either mouthwatering or gut-wrenching, but the writing is steadfastly satisfying and clear. A passage on the purported edibility of roasted beaver tail is especially entertaining. The author wisely allows philosophical questions pertaining to the validity of hunting and the efficacy of state-enforced regulations to simmer in the background, and he effectively shows nature in all its glory. An insider's look at hunting that devotees and nonparticipants alike should find fascinating.]] Copyright Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Copyright (c) Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

CHAPTER ONE Standing Ground This book has a hell of a lot going for it, simply because it's a hunting story. That's because hunting stories are the oldest and most widespread form of story on earth. The genre has been around so long, and has such deep roots, that it extends beyond humans. When two wolves meet up, they'll often go through a routine of smelling each other's breath. For a wolf to put his nose to another wolf's mouth is to pose a question: "What happened while you were hunting?" To exhale is to answer: "You can still smell the blood." Of course, nothing tells a hunting story like a human. Long ago, our ancestors may have told hunting stories in ways that are similar to those of animals today. It's been proposed that the human kiss finds its origins in a mouth-to-mouth greeting similar to that of the modern wolf's. Similarly, it's been proposed that the handshake originated as a way of proving that neither party was concealing a weapon. But at some point--at least by fifty thousand years ago, though possibly much earlier--we began to tell our hunting stories through the complex languages that are now a hallmark of our species. Linguists and anthropologists theorize that complex language evolved just for this purpose: to coordinate hunting and gathering activities, to categorize an increasingly complex arsenal of hunting tools and weapons, and to convey details about animals and habitat that might be hidden from sight. In short, language came about for the same purposes that I'm engaged in at this very moment. Granted, these first hunting stories were probably not "stories" at all, at least not in the way we now think of that word. I imagine them more as instructions and descriptions, which is fitting, since the purpose of the vast majority of writing about hunting today is to teach readers how to do something. This "something" can often be quite esoteric. Maybe it's a technique for hunting mallard ducks over flooded corn in Iowa, or maybe it's an explanation of why it's better to sharpen the blade of your skinning knife at an angle of thirteen degrees rather than fifteen. Hunters usually call this kind of information "how-to," and I have read and enjoyed a great many pieces of how-to writing in my life. But while you will find a trove of hunting tips and tricks within this book, this is not intended as how-to material. Instead, you might think of this book as why-to, who-to, and what-to. That is, this book uses the ancient art of the hunting story to answer the questions of why I hunt, who I am as a hunter, and what hunting means to me. As I ponder the first of those questions--why do I hunt?--two particular moments come to mind. The first took place on a recent spring day when I was hunting turkeys in the Powder River Badlands of southeastern Montana with my brother Matt. Early that morning we left Matt's pack llamas, Timmy and Haggy, tethered near our camp. Matt headed south, and I went into the next valley to the west. Around late morning I started after a tom, or male turkey, that I'd heard gobbling several hundred yards away. I followed the bird for close to an hour, only once catching a glimpse of it. He was walking fast along the edge of a sandstone cliff, maybe about thirty yards higher than me and two hundred yards out. I sat down amid a tangle of fallen timber and used a turkey call to mimic the soft clucks of a hen. Almost as soon as I did, the tom jumped off the cliff and took flight. He flapped his wings maybe six times and soared right over my head. Turkeys are not graceful fliers; nor are they graceful landers. This one crashed through the limbs of a ponderosa pine and then thudded to the ground on the timbered slope of a deep ravine off to my left. I turned my head in that direction, so that my chin was over my left shoulder. I kept on clucking. I was hopeful that the tom would come to check on the source of the calls, but after a couple of minutes I hadn't seen or heard a thing. I called some more, but still nothing happened. You have to be very careful about movement and sound when you're hunting turkeys, so I continued to hold dead still even though I hadn't heard or seen the bird since it landed. Maybe about five minutes went by without my ever turning my head away from its position over my left shoulder. And then something strange happened. Suddenly, someone sighed very loudly just behind my right shoulder. I've had coyotes and bobcats come to my turkey call, but this sigh sounded like that of an annoyed person who was slightly out of breath from running up a hill. My immediate response was to turn my head very quickly in its direction. My chin was just about to begin passing over my right shoulder when I noticed a large male black bear standing on its rear feet with its front feet propped up on a log that was leaning against the log that I was leaning against. I'm sure he was hoping to find a nest full of turkey eggs and, if everything went well, to catch the turkey, too. Now he was staring at me with a very inquisitive look in his eye as he struggled to recalibrate his expectations. I once heard a radio interview with a neuroscientist who studies mental processes during extremely stressful moments. He described how people in such situations will recall having dozens of distinct thoughts in the seconds that it takes for, say, a person that has fallen from a roof to hit the ground. His belief, he explained, is that we aren't actually having those thoughts when we think we are; rather, through a trick of memory, we just think we had them whenever we try to recall the moment. Regardless of what that guy says, I know that I had the following thoughts over the course of the next second or so: I thought about how weird it was that this bear and I both happened to be hunting turkeys in the same place at the same time; and I thought about how weird it was that I was trying to deceive a turkey in order to kill it and eat it, and how my efforts to do so had in turn deceived another creature that would have liked to have killed and eaten that turkey as well; and I wondered what effect my turkey gun, a twelve-gauge shotgun loaded with copper-coated #5 pellets, would have on a black bear at close range; and I imagined myself making a case for self-defense when I was investigated by a game warden for killing a black bear without the proper permit; and I imagined what it would be like to get mauled by a black bear; and, if I did get mauled, I imagined that it would be a very minor mauling as the bear would quickly realize that I wasn't what he was after; and then I thought about how black bears hardly ever mess with people; and then I imagined myself telling this story for a very long time, regardless of the actual outcome. The bear interrupted this whirlwind litany of thoughts with a woof, like the first noise a dog might make when someone knocks at the door. He then ran off through the timber at the casual pace of a jogging human. The sound of the bear's running died away, and the forest returned to its usual crisp and breezy stillness. I leaned back to wait for my pulse to slow, as it was racing at a speed that I figured to be unhealthy. I sat for maybe five minutes, just breathing and thinking. I had that grateful and relieved feeling that you get when you first realize that you're recovering from the flu. Then I heard a turkey gobble, so far away and faint that the sound seemed more like a feeling than an actual noise. I got up to look for it, happy to be alive and walking in this wonderful and ancient world where bears sigh and turkeys gobble. The second moment that helps answer the question of why I hunt occurred well over two thousand miles to the north of where I was hunting turkeys. I was camped on the North Slope of Alaska's Brooks Range, about seventy-five miles south of the Arctic Ocean's Beaufort Sea. I'd been there for a week, waiting for the arrival of caribou. I hadn't intended to stay so long, and I was running low on food. This was worrying me just as the sound of food came by. I was lying in my sleeping bag during the first moments of morning light, and the noise I heard was a rush of wings so close to my tent that the nylon quivered. It was followed by the strange cackling of ptarmigan, a grouselike bird that is bigger than a quail but smaller than a pheasant. My brother Danny has heard their call described as go-back, go-back, go-back, but it reminds me more of Curly's signature laugh from the Three Stooges--a sort of nyack-nyack-nyack. My boots were frozen, but I pulled them on as best as I could and stepped out to a gravel bar that was crusted in frost. I dragged a rubberized duffel bag out from under my flipped-over canoe, grabbed a twenty-gauge shotgun in one hand and a handful of shells in the other, and trotted off in the direction that the birds had gone. I crossed the ice of a small pond, formed where a braid of the river had become isolated from the main channel. It was almost frozen to the bottom, and I could see a small school of sticklebacks biding their time inside a doomed world. The pond ended at a steeply eroded cut bank. I pulled myself up the ledge and then rose to my feet. I was now standing on the soft, moss-padded ground of the tundra. The birds had already molted to their white winter plumage, though there was no snow yet. This was bad for them but good for me, as I could see them running along the ground as plainly as softballs rolling across a field. Excerpted from Meat Eater: Adventures from the Life of an American Hunter by Steven Rinella All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.