The will to climb Obsession and commitment and the quest to climb Annapurna--the world's most deadly peak

One of the few to bestride every mountain taller than 8,000 meters, Viesturs here recounts attempts on the fourteenth and final peak he conquered, Annapurna, in Nepal. Displaying an experienced alpinist's appreciation for climbing technique, Viesturs critiques expeditions with unfeigned awe for climbers' courage, audacity, and achievement. Noting that reading Annapurna (1952), by pioneering summiteer Maurice Herzog, inspired him to become a mountaineer, Viesturs describes how his subsequent study of less famous ascenders deepened his respect for them and his wariness for perils posed by the mountain he would have to confront to attain his personal goal of climbing 14 8,000-meter peaks. That the accounts of Louis Lachenal, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, and Erhard Loretan aren't available in English renders Viesturs' translated excerpts new and singularly interesting to the mountaineering readership, while his excursion through the Annapurna bibliography overall ponders the ineffable question of why mountain climbers court lethal risk. Concluding with his arrival at the apex of Annapurna, Viesturs combines acuity and fairness in a riveting presentation of the pure drama of high-altitude adventure.--Taylor, Gilbert Copyright 2010 Booklist

Viesturs (No Shortcuts to the Top), with an assist from writer Roberts, conveys the almost manic dedication and preparation of the accomplished mountaineers mastering such dangerous peaks as the perilous Annapurna. Quoting from Soviet climber Anatoli Boukreev, Viesturs, America's most skilled high-altitude mountaineer, lays out the problems of humans scaling unforgiving terrain in the bitter cold without a margin for error: "High-altitude mountaineering is the most dangerous kind of sport; it has the highest rate of fatal consequence." He knew the world's killer peak, Annapurna, could be bested, for the French climber Maurice Herzog did it in 1950. Learning techniques from veteran achievers, he still failed twice to successfully plant a flag on the crest of the mountain, but he managed a triumphant climb of it in 2005. This is a detailed, nicely told account of a man's endurance and perseverance in achieving a singular goal. (Oct.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.

Finding Everett Ruess, 2011, etc.), Viesturs (K2, 2009, etc.) returns with another true account of cliffhanging adventure. Viesturs was inspired by mountain-climbing icon Maurice Herzog's successful ascent of Annapurna in 1950, which was the first time anyone had reached the summit of that treacherous Himalayan monolith. After conquering most of the harrowing Himalayan range, in 2000 Viesturs finally prepared to take on the intimidating Annapurna. Interspersed throughout his own combative history with the Himalayas' "8,000ers" are historical accounts of other adventurous souls who've attempted to conquer these peaks since the 19th century. The author describes his own attachment to mountain-climbing as "tread[ing] between commitment and obsession," which is believable enough, since Viesturs certainly doesn't over-romanticize this obsession. Viesturs describes the successful exploits of the most formidable characters taking part in this survival-of-the-fittest competition, but often the most miraculous accounts are rooted in failure: In particular, French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille's incredible 8,000-foot descent from Annapurna with a broken arm and no rope, followed by fellow mountaineer Simone Moro surviving a 2,600-foot tumble down the mountain's rugged face. Reinhold Messner, often considered the greatest mountaineer ever, was the first to conquer all 14 8,000ers. Though Viesturs' battle with Annapurna ended on a triumphal note, not every successful mountaineer gains a lasting sense of fulfillment from their achievements in the so-called vertical world. Unfortunately, the author only skims the surface of the psychological aspects that drive a person to scale a 29,000-foot mountain. Lacks overall depth and scope, but good for vicarious thrill-seeking.]] Copyright Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.