Way off the road Discovering the peculiar charms of small-town America

William Geist

Large print - 2007

Saved in:

1st floor Show me where

LARGE PRINT/973.92/Geist
1 / 1 copies available
Location Call Number   Status
1st floor LARGE PRINT/973.92/Geist Checked In
Contents unavailable.
Review by New York Times Review

A COMBINATION of Alexis de Tocqueville and Charles Kuralt, Bill Geist has been reporting on "the peculiar charms of small-town America" for 20 years as the roving correspondent for "CBS News Sunday Morning." Geist's "Way Off the Road" is a breezy account of his most recent travels off the beaten, and sometimes left-for-dead, paths. Admittedly, his studies of American culture are not in the same league as Robert and Helen Lynd's "Middletown." But they're a lot funnier. Geist tells the story of his 5,600-mile R. V. odyssey looking for slightly odd but lovable characters in the towns where everybody knows your name. With wit and kindness, he pins new exotic specimens to the television screen and his book pages - 28 places we might want to visit, or miss. For example, the sign on the outskirts of one of Geist's stops says: Monowi, Neb. (pop. 2). That "turns out to be something of an exaggeration," he writes. The population had been "trending downward" for decades. It had dropped to seven in the 1990s, and then to Elsie and Rudy Eiler. But Rudy died in 2004. Elsie is the town mayor, the board, the secretary-treasurer, the librarian, the police chief and, her most important job, the keeper of the books for the cemetery. Geist sees one-woman Monowi as representing "self-government as espoused by our founding fathers in its purest form." Loyalton, Calif, (pop. 817), tucked away in a peaceful valley in the Sierra, is so remote that the publisher of the local newspaper, The Sierra Booster, makes deliveries to his subscribers by airplane. The 92-year-old paperboy, flying a plane that was new in 1949, folds the paper with both hands and steers with his knees, then throws the newspaper out the window as he zooms past. Rachel, Nev. (pop. 98), makes Geist's gazetteer because it is on the official Extraterrestrial Highway, or Alien Highway. It has experienced more U.F.O. sightings and close encounters of the third kind, or any other kind, than anywhere else in the world. The highway also passes by Area 51, a semisecret government test facility where the stealth bomber was developed. "A disturbing number of our fellow Americans," Geist explains, believe the facility houses "alien spaceships as well as the aliens themselves, dead or alive." New Glarus, Wis. (pop. 2,111), is the home of Kathy DeBruin, "the Annie Leibovitz of cow portraiture." Geist's description of how DeBruin tries to make her model, Maggie the cow, "slim and angular, while showing off her attractive, umm, mammary glands" could sell a new reality-television bovine makeover series. Then there's the town where the prairie dog sucker lives: Cortez, Colo. (pop. 7,977). Gay Balfour makes a good living using a powerful Vac-All to suck prairie dogs, the bane of ranch life, out of their holes. He sometimes sells them as exotic pets, fetching $450 apiece in New York. "Doesn't that just beat all?" laughs one rancher, who adds that nobody in Colorado would buy the things. "Like having a pet cockroach in New York," Geist says. One town I would want to get out of as fast as you can say "Bill Geist" is Wilson, N.C. (pop. 44,405). It passed a law banning dilapidated indoor furniture from having a second life on porches. Wilson is a town where folks rat on neighbors. Geist follows the police while they track down criminal couches and La-Z-Boy recliners. "I wanted to grab a bullhorn and announce: 'Come out with your hands up!'" Geist says of one bust. Instead he read the chair its "Veranda rights": "You have the right to (continue to) remain silent." Heading my must-see list is Bithlo, Fla. (pop. 4,626), the home of Figure 8 School Bus Racing. "You know how an 8 crosses there in the middle?" Geist writes. "Racing fans, that's your guarantee of an evening of delightful destruction the whole family can enjoy." If you've ever wondered where school buses go on spring break or summer vacation, this is the town for you. The book isn't just about oddities. It's also helpful as a travel guide. As he flits about, Geist drops observations about the four essentials of travel: flying there, staying there, eating there, driving there. Geist is particularly eloquent on the joys of eating, or not eating, in the places where they roll up the sidewalks at night. Small towns are not famous for their cuisine, Geist notes. "Meatloaf, mashed potatoes, barbecue, chicken-fried steak, gravy - all that stuff that leaves you smiling in your casket, although making it harder to close." One of Geist's fine dining experiences is in a place he identifies as "Outside of Town, Kan. (pop. sparse)," where we meet Michael Coffman. Everyone calls him "Roadkill" - because whenever a deer is hit by a car, the sheriff calls him and he collects the animal while it's still edible. His famous roadkill stews also include elk, moose, turkey, duck, goose and, if you're lucky, Alaskan musk ox. He hardsells his stew by telling Geist about the roadkill groundhog his cousin collected on Highway 24. "We think it was Michelin tires that got it." "America doesn't make much anymore," Geist writes in the serious part of the book. "It's too much work, too much heavy machinery, too much noise and smoke. These days we sell, we trade, we deliver, we type, we upload and download, we feed, we entertain. In rural areas, struggling family farmers coast to coast are turning to 'agri-tainment,' cutting elaborate mazes in their cornfields where people come out and pay to get lost. ... It's called tourism." But first, Geist says, "you've got to figure out how to bring 'em in." If you're a small town and lack an attraction, "a Statue of Liberty or a baseball team or beaches or maybe a big rock with presidents' faces carved in it, you have to get creative." Not all towns are as lucky as Kokomo, Ind. (pop. 46,113). It draws in the tourists with the biggest sycamore tree stump in the world. "Make your town the capital of something," Geist advises. Like the capital of cow chips: Beaver, Okla. (pop. 1,478). Or open a museum - like the International Tow Truck Museum and Hall of Fame, in the only "big city" you'll find here: Chattanooga, Tenn.(pop. 154,762). "Anything really. ... Don't be bashful. Americans are easily amused." And by doing something like that, a town might very well wind up on a Bill Geist segment on CBS some Sunday morning. The sign on the outskirts of Monowi, Neb., says 'pop. 2.' But that was before Rudy Eiler died. Marvin Kitman lives in a small town (pop. 9,342). His most recent book is "The Man Who Would Not Shut Up: The Rise of Bill O'Reilly."

Copyright (c) The New York Times Company [October 27, 2009]
Review by Booklist Review

"This year marks Geist's twentieth anniversary as an on-air correspondent for the CBS News program Sunday Morning, and by way of celebration, he marks the occasion with this witty, good-natured exploration of small-town America. When Geist says small town, he means small: one of the places he visists, Hanlontown, Iowa, has a population of 229. Yet the place is lively enough to have its annual Sundown Days, which celebrate the fact that, on the summer solstice, the sun sets on the railroad tracks. Then there's Loyalton, California (population 817), whose paperboy, age 92, delivers the paper from an airplane, sort of dive-bombing his subscribers. (He's a younger cousin of the Wright brothers.) Not all of the places Geist visits are quite so small Chattanooga, Tennessee, has 154,762 residents but they are all just as interesting (Chattanooga is home to the International Towing and Recovery Hall of Fame Museum). Geist, as usual, writes in a friendly, slightly off-kilter tone, pointing out these unusual places with their unusual people but never quite making fun of them."--"Pitt, David" Copyright 2007 Booklist

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

CBS roving correspondent and author Geist offers up an amusing and expansive collection of America?s quirky, strange and offbeat nooks. The "Land of Lost Luggage" in Scottsboro, Ala., for instance, is where the millions of bags airlines "lose" every year wind up and "every day is like Christmas" for the locals. In New Glarus, Wis., photographer Kathy DeBruin has a reputation as the "Annie Leibovitz of cow portraiture." And then there?s Boston?s Museum of Dirt, where, among other amazing dirt is a display of dirt taken from Barry Manilow?s driveway. While mirth is in plentiful supply, some of Geist?s stories are real nail biters, such as his trip via mule train to deliver mail to the Havasupai Native American tribe. (Its members live on the floor of the Grand Canyon.) Geist?s low key, deadpan humor hits the mark, and he has a gentle way of writing just to the point of ridicule before he backs off. Readers will find nearly 30 tales that will amaze and amuse and maybe inspire some extra stops on their next road trip. (May) Copyright 2007 Reed Business Information.


Review by Library Journal Review

Geist celebrates 20 years of traveling through small-town America for CBS Sunday Morning by recapping some of his nuttier stories. With a seven-city tour. (c) Copyright 2010. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

(c) Copyright Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

Standstill Parade Whalan, Minnesota, Pop: 62 Whalan, Minnesota, is a bucolic little town. But you know what? Things can get a little too bucolic sometimes. The unlocked front doors, the peace and quiet, and the down-home neighborliness are all well and good, but from time to time folks want a little excitement for a change. "Let's have a parade!" proposed the young, vivacious, ponytailed local businessman and fairly new guy in town David Harrenstein. Hmmm. Nice idea, but next to impossible in a town where the population is sixty-two and dropping fast, numerically and quite literally. Whalan has none of your essential parade elements, according to town council member Buddy Olson. A marching band? "No." Fire truck? "No." Police car? "No." A queen of any kind? "No." Buddy isn't going negative on us, just stating the facts. All of this is not to mention the biggest problem of all, parade-wise: the whole town's only, at the most, two blocks long. A parade would be over before it began. "Everybody loves a parade," David says. "We're just geographically challenged." He admits to an ulterior motive. David owns the Overland Inn, one of the only buildings in town. It's no longer an inn, but a small restaurant of sorts that serves ice cream and "world-famous pie"--world famous around here at least. He wanted to attract some people to town, people who like pie a la mode. Since purchasing the inn two years earlier, he'd found doing business without people around to be extremely challenging. Townsfolk were skeptical, as small-town folk often are when it comes to new ideas. "We've never had a parade," says Harley Olson, Buddy's father. "At least not since '43, when I got here. About, oooh, forty years ago we did have a carnival, but it's been pretty quiet since." Adeline Larson backed him up on that, saying she could not recollect a parade in her eighty-eight years here. Then David came up with a breakthrough idea--maybe even a concept. To solve the paramount problem of a parade being too long for their short town, why not have the parade stand still--stay with him on this--and have the crowd walk around it? A standstill parade! "We were gonna lock him up when he said that," Buddy scoffs. But the more Buddy and others in town got to thinking about it, the more they thought: You know, it just might work. Not to bring up a sore subject, but what would be in the parade? You need a cop car with a siren and flashing lights, for openers. The Fillmore County sheriff had one and said he supposed he could send it over, since there really ought to be a police presence at a major public event like this. You need a color guard. Old-timer Marvin Severson, commander of the local American Legion post, had to be convinced to deploy his forces. He said he was a little out of practice: "The last parade I was in was up in Black River Falls in '52." But Marvin came around. The flag-bearing Legionnaires would lead the parade, right behind the police car. They're old, but they could still stand, which was all that would be required. David named Adeline, the town's oldest living resident, as grand marshal. She, too, resisted the honor. "I finally agreed after he told me I wouldn't have to do anything," she says. "I guess in this parade nobody does anything." You need smiling, waving politicians in a parade, but that's never a problem. State Representative Greg Davids said sure, he'd be there. "I march in one or two parades every Saturday, and when I heard there was no walking involved in this one, I said, 'Now this is a good parade.' " As mentioned, Whalan has no queen; nary a corn queen or a soybean queen or any other royalty for that matter. So David invited the Lanesboro Beef Queen, whom he described as "quite slender, actually." Nearby Lanesboro, a major city in these parts (pop: 775), turned out to be a friendly neighbor in need, agreeing to send a fire truck, an ambulance, and the high school's marching band, which could possibly be deprogrammed to not march. Now we're talking! Word spread of this revolutionary new parade concept and David was besieged by entries: Boy Scouts, polka bands, dog groomers, you name it. The parade was becoming almost too big even to stand still within the Whalan city limits. Locals began sprucing up the town, giving a small building on the main street a fresh coat of paint, mowing lawns, and sweeping sidewalks. Women began making lefse, a kind of a potato-dough tortilla, a Norwegian delicacy, not recommended by doctors, to sell at the parade. There are many Nordics in Minnesota. Many, many, many. Parade day dawns a perfect, warm, sunny Saturday in May. Downtown Whalan is bustling with more people probably than had ever been here before--certainly at one time, and perhaps cumulatively (founded: 1876).David needs a walkie-talkie to coordinate the event. This being the worldwide premiere of the Concept, without a rehearsal, there are many questions: a fellow decked out in 1890s garb shows up riding one of those antique tall-wheeled unicycles. How is he supposed to ride it in the parade if he has to remain motionless? "Does it have a kickstand?" David asks helpfully. A theatrical troupe asks for an official ruling on this question: With this being a standstill parade, were they allowed to do song-and-dance numbers? David decrees they can, so long as they stay within their designated space. A barricade is set up in front of the parade. Then comes the sheriff's car, followed by an impressive ten-Legionnaire color guard. Way to go Marvin! After that it was first come, first served in the parade lineup. Now, how does a standstill parade start? "I don't know," David replies. "We're breaking new ground. I think it just sort of happens." And, sure enough, it does. The police car's siren wails. The well-disciplined color guard stands still. The car carrying Grand Marshal Adeline Larson remains in "Park," and she begins to wave, albeit to the same three people. And the fifteen-piece marching band becomes a band stand, striking up "It's a Grand Old Flag." There are floats, not so much of the Rose Bowl Parade variety, but more in the tack-some-tinsel-to-the-edge-of-a-flatbed-truck style. There's a bluegrass band, a white poodle in a hat and sunglasses having her nails painted in the back of a dog groomer's truck, and seven Boy Scouts from--where else?--Lanesboro. Two (not all that entertaining) people in the parade are just sitting on bales of hay, and complaining a little about their placement "over here by the septic system." And in a standstill parade, that is not about to change. As usual, horses bring up the rear. "I guess they put us back here out of habit," says one rider. "But it's not necessary in this parade. No one's going to step in anything." The nature of the parade allows one participant, a professional masseuse, to set up her table and offer complimentary services. Members of the unprecedented crowd have come from as far away as Wyzeta (150 miles) and now stand almost one deep all along the parade route. "We haven't had this many people in Whalan since the bank closed in '32," says one member of a polka band "riding" in a classic old red convertible and promoting Das Wurst Haus in Lanesboro. Lanesboro really has it all. But the crowd doesn't quite get it. They're standing still or sitting in lawn chairs, the way you would at a normal parade. When the band plays "Anchors Aweigh" the crowd remains anchored to the curb. Finally, after some prompting and explanation, they slowly begin to stroll around the parade. ("Norwegians are slow learners," quips a Swede.) A few stop to pet the horses or to chat with members of the parade, things you simply could not do within the old parade paradigm. Others actually meander among the parade units, going where no parade-goers have gone before.They're eating David's pie and ice cream. The lefse is selling like hotcakes, which they sort of are, as are copies of the best-selling book (here) 91 Ways to Serve Lefse . A woman from Wyzeta takes it all in and says, "This is America"; to which George Judy, a local resident wearing a plaid shirt and denim overalls, replies, "It is now. Everybody's getting goofy." He's right about that, of course, and here everyone seems to be enjoying getting goofy and they're giving the parade rave reviews. "It's ecologically sound," says one viewer, "and it's easier to take pictures." A man named Ernie, driving a stunning '32 Packard--one of several antique cars in the lineup--notes that this is the first parade where he doesn't have to worry about running out of gas or having an overheated engine. Even before it's over, David pronounces that there will definitely be a Second Annual Whalan Parade, and that it will be even better next year. "We need a reviewing stand. Maybe we could put it on a flatbed truck and drive it around the parade. Maybe put some of the audience on bleachers on a flatbed too." The man is a parade savant! He figures he'd better put a cap on the number of parade entries next year, too, or enlarge the town. And, order more Porta-Johns. So, how do you know when a standstill parade is over? "I don't know," David admits. Apparently it's when things start moving. The horses are bored by all this standing around and break ranks. The sheriff's car pulls away, the color guard rolls up their American Legion banner, the masseuse folds up her table, the band marches, and everybody goes home. Happy. It's been an exciting day in Whalan, perhaps the first. The Flying Paperboy Loyalton, California, Pop: 817 A small plane, a red speck on the vast, blue western sky, flies lazily high above a rancher's house. Then suddenly it dips its left wing, makes a sharp turn, and dives nearly to the desert floor before leveling off and making a run straight at the house, rather menacingly, like a fighter plane on the attack. Clearly, the pilot is on a mission, the house his target. And, indeed, as the plane buzzes over, it drops...something...small...that lands not fifty feet from the porch, a bull's-eye. "You want it close, but not on the house," the pilot and bombardier explains, looking back out his window to see someone scurry to pick it up and wave. Another successful operation for veteran flying ace Hal Wright, who publishes the Sierra Booster newspaper in Loyalton, California, and delivers it by air drop--with smart-bomb accuracy--to subscribers living on far-flung ranches. It's hard to believe that with some thirty-six million people now jammed into California, there can still be places as completely out of the way as the old mining town of Loyalton. It accounts for just a few hundred of those thirty-six million residents, and lies in a peaceful valley of the Sierra Nevada mountain range northwest of Reno, Nevada. It's surrounded by ranches that sprouted up back during the gold rush of the 1850s to provide dairy products and beef for the mine workers. We found but one place that puts people up for the night, the Golden West Saloon, where you walk in and expect to see Miss Kitty and Marshal Dillon having a drink at the bar. The few rooms are on the second floor and their doors open out onto a walkway overlooking the bar, just like at the Longbranch on Gunsmoke. Pay phone's down the hall. Next morning, we meet Hal, a fit and frisky ninety-two-year-old, who tells us he was once a local gold digger himself, until he fell down a mine shaft, and lived to pledge he'd never go back. He and his wife, who's named Allene, but whom he refers to only as "Sweetie Pie," somehow got what he calls "this harebrained idea" to start a newspaper. The first edition of the Sierra Booster is dated October 21, 1949, and includes a front-page note to readers: "To be published fortnightly at Loyalton, California, until further notice." Hal never gave any such notice and has no plans to. As publisher, he hired himself as editor, who hired himself as the reporter, columnist, and photographer, as well as the production and advertising staffs. I accompany Hal on his rounds, as he stops at a few of the few area businesses to sell advertising--and ask for news: maybe they'd heard something interesting. "We have a new plumbing room," offers the woman behind the counter at the hardware store, and Hal makes note of it. "You can't print anywhere near all the news that's going on," Hal explains to me, walking at his usual fast pace out of the store. "You just can't do it." There are no headlines in his newspaper; Hal doesn't like to sensationalize. There are photographs of local cats and dogs, a popular feature, and columns bearing news from surrounding towns, such as "The Downieville Dragnet." A big story in the current edition informs readers that the "animal control officer" no longer wants to be called the "dogcatcher," and perhaps never did. "We thought that was newsworthy," Hal explains, adding that the position of the newspaper on this issue is that "dogcatcher" is just fine. Hal's column, which he gives prominent placement, attacks the Federal Aviation Administration for trying to "clip his wings," that is, for trying to deny him a renewal of his pilot's license. Ultimately, Hal won. "That was strictly age discrimination," Hal says. "I had to hire three doctors and one attorney in order to get the job done." Hal is the oldest licensed pilot in the nation. He joined the UFOs (United Flying Octogenarians)--although technically he's too old. Has he considered starting a club for nonagenarian pilots? "No," he answers, "I don't want to be the president, secretary, treasurer, and the board of directors." In addition to his other duties at the Sierra Booster , Hal is also in charge of circulation and is its only paperboy. In this sparsely populated area, with subscribers scattered over six hundred square miles, he decided to deliver papers to the ranches in his airplane. Hal invites me along on his paper route. Driving out to the airstrip, he tells of his three (or is it five?) heart operations, at which point our cameraman, Gilbert, says that, although he'd love to come along, he'll be mounting a camera inside the cockpit and staying on the ground. It's a sunny day. I mention to Hal that his windshield wipers are on. Hal has a small plane: a four-seater Aeronca, which was brand new in 1949. I strap myself in while Hal loads newspapers and starts the engine...no, wait, it's not starting. Won't start. A tow truck arrives twenty minutes later to jump-start the engine--although at this point I'm kind of hoping it won't. I ask if the tow truck provides aerial service should that become necessary. Excerpted from Way off the Road: Discovering the Peculiar Charms of Small Town America by Bill Geist All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.