Middle Eastern sweets Desserts, pastries, creams & treats

Lebanese-born, London-based chef Hage follows her James Beard Award--winning The Middle Eastern Vegetarian Cookbook with another authentic and accessible collection, this one offering more than 100 recipes for sweets including rosewater-scented cookies, tahini-rich cakes, and beyond. Her extensive knowledge of Middle Eastern baking traditions is evidenced in her informative commentary on the area's history, culinary traditions, and distinctive ingredients. Many may not know, for example, that Iran exports 92% of the world's saffron, or that the "pillowy" stuffed Arabic pancake qatayef dates all the way back to a 10th-century Arabic cookbook. Among the many standout recipes are Lebanese stuffed cookies (ma'moul), enriched with dates, nuts, rose water, and mahleb, an aromatic cherry seed spice; Moroccan snake cake (m'hanncha), an eye-catching confection made with ropes of filo stuffed with a cinnamon and cardamom-scented filling; and a decadent vegan date cake made from apples and medjool dates. Though she includes a helpful ingredients glossary and encourages cooks to stick with the real thing, Hage does provide room for substitutes, such as switching to almond extract in place of mahleb. For bakers inspired by international cuisines, this excellent compilation provides no shortage of delectable ideas. (Jul.)