Pravda ha ha True travels to the end of Europe

Rory MacLean, 1954-

Book - 2019

In 1989 the Berlin Wall fell. In that euphoric year Rory MacLean travelled from Berlin to Moscow, exploring lands that were - for most Brits and Americans - part of the forgotten half of Europe. Thirty years on, MacLean traces his original journey backwards, across countries confronting old ghosts and new fears: from revanchist Russia, through Ukraine's bloodlands, into illiberal Hungary, and then Poland, Germany and the UK. Along the way he shoulders an AK-47 to go hunting with Moscow's chicken Tsar, plays video games in St Petersburg with a cyber-hacker who cracked the US election, drops by the Che Guevara High School of Political Leadership in a non-existent nowhereland and meets the Warsaw doctor who tried to stop a march of 7...0,000 nationalists. Finally, on the shores of Lake Geneva, he waits patiently to chat with Mikhail Gorbachev. As Europe sleepwalks into a perilous new age, MacLean explores how opportunists - both within and outside of Russia, from Putin to Home Counties populists - have made a joke of truth, exploiting refugees and the dispossessed, and examines the veracity of historical narrative from reportage to fiction and fake news. He asks what happened to the optimism of 1989 and, in the shadow of Brexit, chronicles the collapse of the European dream.

Saved in:
Subjects
Genres
Travel writing
Published
London : Bloomsbury Publishing 2019.
Language
English
Main Author
Rory MacLean, 1954- (author)
Physical Description
x, 343 pages : map ; 24 cm
ISBN
9781408896532
9781408896525
  • Russia : Under Moscow ; Over Russia ; Putin's pecker ; Russia, my Russia ; Terrible beauty ; Tell me another one ; Stranger in Moscow ; Beat it ; Tentacles ; Under the skin ; Lies lies lies ; Sunday in St. Petersburg ; Cold War 2.0 ; Party party (like it's 1969) ; Beauty and the beast ; Angels ; London road
  • Estonia : Home ; Soviet secret barbecue society
  • Kalingrad : The others
  • Transnistria : Back in the USSR ; Fear is a habit
  • Ukraine : Theatre of bad dreams ; All that glitters
  • Hungary : Not quite spring ; Altogether now ; Down and out in Buda and Kispet
  • Poland : Independence day ; Devil's domain ; Dementia
  • Germany : Beyond the horizon ; Odysseys ; Wir sind das Volk
  • Switzerland : Waiting for Gorby
  • Britain : Jolly ol' England ; Fog in the channel.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

The hopes of 1989 have dimmed into illiberal authoritarianism according to this tragicomic view of post-communist Europe. British travel writer Maclean (Stalin's Nose) reprises a journey he made after the fall of the Berlin Wall into the democratic ferment of Eastern Europe, a region now mired in klepto-capitalism, quasi-dictatorship, and ethnonationalism. He spends much time in a semibarbarous Russia, firing assault rifles and eating a hallucinogenic mushroom species--dubbed "Putin's Pecker"--with an oligarch; viewing a tank parade; and visiting the Internet Research Agency, headquarters of Russian social media subversion. Other stops include Estonia, where the population eternally prepares for guerilla war against Russian invaders; Hungary, where homeless vagrants spout diatribes against an imaginary migrant menace; and Poland, where sleek media professionals do the same. Threaded throughout is the author's engagement with a Nigerian migrant trying to get from Moscow, where nuns allegedly amputated his toe, to England. Maclean combines vivid reportage ("Moscow unfolded like a flipbook... newly gilded onion domes, low-slung Maseratis and Little Potato fast-food stalls.... Fuming policemen swaggered across the broad boulevards, their truncheons knocking against their jackboots") with unabashed soapboxing ("I yelled at the drunks... saying that lies had to be exposed and evil held at bay"). The result is an engrossing travelogue that's both trenchantly observant and deeply felt. (Jan.)

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Review by Library Journal Review

In this timely look at the former Soviet Union, British travel writer Maclean (Stalin's Nose), goes back to Russia and areas of the former U.S.S.R. to discover what went wrong after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the collapse of the Soviet Union two years later. He describes the initial euphoria at newfound freedoms, the hard times afterward as the "USSR imploded," and the lack of freedom under the current leadership of Putin. Maclean brings the current reality of Russians to light with vivid descriptions of visits with various characters and their views on life and the future, which at first seem surprising, but quickly fall into a recognizable pattern. From a Russian oligarch with teeth like "broken rocks" who made a fortune selling mushrooms and a young Nigerian immigrant frantically searching for a way to freedom, to a quick look at the chilling Internet Research Agency and the havoc it has wreaked, the author writes with heart and draws in readers with his captivating experiences. VERDICT Fans of travelogs, history buffs, and those with an interest in Russia and the former U.S.S.R. will thoroughly enjoy.--Holly Hebert, Middle Tennessee State Univ., Murfreesboro

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Review by Kirkus Book Review

The acclaimed British travel writer and historian retraces his trip after the fall of the Berlin Wall to explore what happened to the hopes and promises of 1989.This time, MacLean (In North Korea: Lives and Lies in the State of Truth, 2017, etc.) traveled in the reverse direction, from Moscow to Berlin. His six-month journey included Estonia, Ukraine, Hungary, Poland, East Germany, and little-known Transnistria. As the author relates, the promise of democracy lasted only so long. Drawn by the newly dynamic economies, the money- and power-hungry moved in. The rise of nationalismwhich built on Nazi theorist Carl Schmitt's teachings that Germans' utopia was stolen by existentially different and alien opponentshas created enmity and violence toward migrants, the poor, and other marginalized groups. Having used his characteristic talent of drawing insight from those he meets, the author offers fascinating profiles throughout: the Russian chicken czar who shared his rare hallucinogenic truffle, one of the many oligarchs enjoying the new wealth, at least for the moment; and a Nigerian refugee who told the harrowing story of his unflinching determination to get to London. One of MacLean's contacts described how Russian tacticians were able, by 2007, to shut down Estonian cyberspace and then take over Georgian government websites and interfere in Crimea, Ukraine, France, and the U.S. Not just a travelogue, this is a consistently engaging yet fearsome book that effectively traces the rise of national identity as a myth that paves the way for racism, xenophobia, and even genocide. "Thirty years ago," writes MacLean, "Europe became whole again.In Berlin, Prague and Moscow I'd danced with so many others on the grave of dictatorships.I convinced myself that our generation was an exception in history, that we'd learned to live by different rules, that we were bound together by freedom.I've remade this journeybackwardsto try to understand how it went wrong."Another engrossing book from an author who is much more than just a travel writer. Copyright Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Copyright (c) Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.