Dapper Dan Made in Harlem : a memoir

Daniel R. Day

Book - 2019

"With his eponymous store on 125th Street in Harlem, Dapper Dan pioneered high-end streetwear in the early 1980s, remixing classic luxury-brand logos into his own flamboyant designs. But before reinventing fashion, he was a hungry boy with holes in his shoes, a teen who daringly gambled drug dealers out of their money, a young man in a prison cell who found nourishment in books, and, finally, a designer who broke barriers to outfit a whos-who of music, sport, and crime world celebrities in looks that went on to define an era. By turns playful, poignant, and inspiring, Dapper Dan's memoir is a high-stakes coming-of-age story spanning more than 70 years and set against the backdrop of an ever-evolving America"--

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Subjects
Genres
Autobiographies
Published
New York : Random House, an imprint and division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York [2019]
Language
English
Main Author
Daniel R. Day (author)
Other Authors
Mikael Awake (author)
Edition
First edition
Physical Description
xvii, 277 pages, 16 unnumbered pages of plates : illustrations (chiefly color) ; 25 cm
ISBN
9780525510512
  • Prologue
  • Part I. Danny Boy
  • Chapter 1. Nobody's Poor
  • Chapter 2. Like a Raisin in the Sun
  • Chapter 3. Harlem Dreams
  • Chapter 4. Sportsmen
  • Chapter 5. Firing Coffee
  • Part II. Middle Passages
  • Chapter 6. The Cursed Game
  • Chapter 7. Too Easy
  • Chapter 8. Tree of Life
  • Chapter 9. Home
  • Chapter 10. Mind Games
  • Chapter 11. The Rumble
  • Chapter 12. Hubba Hubba
  • Chapter 13. Aruba
  • Chapter 14. Remakes
  • Part III. The Shop That Never Closed
  • Chapter 15. A New Hustle
  • Chapter 16. Boy Wonder
  • Chapter 17. Closure
  • Chapter 18. Crack
  • Chapter 19. Paid in Full
  • Chapter 20. Beef
  • Chapter 21. The Vise
  • Chapter 22. Game Over
  • Part IV. Underground Runway
  • Chapter 23. Flatfoot Hustling
  • Chapter 24. Highways, Not Runways
  • Chapter 25. Harlem River Blues
  • Thank You!
Review by Booklist Review

Anyone who was anywhere near hip-hop during the 1980s, especially if they loved Yo! MTV Raps, saw Dapper Dan's fashions sported by the likes of LL Cool J, Rakim, and Biz Markie. Daniel Day was born and raised in Harlem, one of seven children of parents who worked hard yet remained in poverty. Day learned the hustle early, starting with small-time theft and moving on to making real money in dice games with drug dealers. His insistence on always looking fly led him to the world of fashion, and his drive, street smarts, and knowledge made him a success. Learning textile printing, he opened his Harlem store in 1982 catering to dealers, rappers, and athletes with his own designs that went on to influence streetwear for generations. Day is a natural storyteller with a distinct point of view that clearly comes through in this enjoyable memoir. He incorporates the social history of Harlem, a fascinating backdrop, and writes as compellingly about his city and its people as he does about his life.--Kathy Sexton Copyright 2019 Booklist

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

In this moving memoir, Day (aka Dapper Dan) chronicles his rise from a poor black boy growing up in 1940s Harlem to becoming a notable designer of streetwear. With clients ranging from gangsters and pimps to Jay-Z and Beyoncé, Day saw each customer as "an actor auditioning to be in this big, generational movie I'm making." Day was a talented poet and writer, as well as a hustler who beat street hoods in dice games and dropped out of high school at 15. In 1974, Day began making and selling clothes, and he opened his first store on 125th Street in 1982. He taught himself textile printing and, during New York's crack epidemic in the 1980s, built a clothing business that inspired what boxers and rappers would wear for years to come; in 2018, he opened a store on Lenox Avenue, with Gucci as a partner. Day writes that he "never thought of [himself] as an artist, or in fashion industry terms... I was playing jazz with fashion." In describing his life, Day also provides a fascinating portrait of the Harlem in his youth, "before the heroin game overtook the numbers game, before crack overtook heroin." Day wonderfully captures the style of Harlem and its evolution throughout the decades. (July) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.

(c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Review by Library Journal Review

Street hustler, con artist, and breakthrough fashion designer Harlem native Day, better known as Dapper Dan, has seen and done it all. Born at the end of the Depression, Day grew up on the streets of Harlem hustling dice games and using drugs and alcohol but maintaining a strong sense of family and loyalty to childhood friends. His story, told here with author Awake, winds through Harlem and local neighborhoods, travels to Africa, which ignited a spark of African pride and style, and running a credit card con throughout the Caribbean, which led him to doing prison time in Aruba. Day ultimately found his niche in fashion design, selling items to gangsters, hip-hop artists, and athletes from the trunk of his car then opening his groundbreaking Dapper Dan's Boutique in 1982, which was shut down after ten years. Since 2010, he has experienced a resurgence in the fashion world, launching a store on New York's Lenox Avenue in 2017. His designs have been exhibited at major museums in New York and beyond. VERDICT Dapper Dan is a Harlem success story. His tale, told here in the vernacular and with honesty, is a true treasure. Absolutely fascinating; will exceed all expectations. [See Prepub Alert, 1/23/19.]--Boyd Childress, formerly with Auburn Univ. Libs., AL

(c) Copyright Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Review by Kirkus Book Review

After nearly three decades of shaping much of what we know of as "street style," Harlem-born Day, aka Dapper Dan, tells his life story in an engaging prose style.From growing up hungry in the 1940s and '50s ("nothing makes you question the purpose and meaning of life like hunger") to being a master dice gambler to opening (and subsequently closing) his own clothing boutique, the author chronicles his own story as well as that of the changing societal landscape of Harlem. Day's parents had moved from "tight-knit rural communities in the South where everyone knew each other" to black Harlem, where families "did their best to re-create those communities." There was little crime and decent education in the public schools, but as Day grew older, the allure of the streets became more important than an education. The author quit high school as the neighborhood was becoming increasingly violent and fragmented due to new housing projects and the rise of heroin and crack, and he took up gambling as his primary hustle. He became a master of his trade, "somewhere between a magician and a scientist," and he used his smarts through dice games as a primary means of income to support his growing family. After a brief stint in prison for a credit-card fraud scheme in Aruba, Day, increasingly spiritually minded and determined to get off the streets, returned to Harlem and opened the clothing boutique Dapper Dan, specializing in furs and leathers. "Fashion for me wasn't about expression," he writes. "Fashion was about power," a message that resonated with his neighborhood connections, drawing in the hustlers with money to spend. Day eventually found a creative way to screen print the logos of high-fashion labels, such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Fendi, and make custom clothing for his first customersthe black gangsters of Harlem. Since then, his clothes and vision have become iconic to American hip-hop culture. With clients like Jam Master Jay, Flavor Flav, and Beyonc, Day continues to have an instrumental effect on black urban culture.A dynamic version of the mythic American dream. Copyright Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Copyright (c) Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

CHAPTER 1 Nobody's Poor I'm old enough to remember another Harlem. Before the heroin game overtook the numbers game, before crack overtook heroin, before a US president moved his offices uptown, and before white people started pushing strollers across 110th Street, I knew a Harlem where you didn't have to lock your front door. I'm talking about a Harlem that was still in the midst of its Renaissance, a Harlem swinging to jazz and bebop, a Harlem beating with the warmth and life of gospel music by day and teeming--­teeming!--­with people and excitement and glamour by night. I'm talking about a Harlem where older women from the South with uncanny multitasking abilities sat outside on stoops or in windows high above the street sewing clothes, peeling vegetables, and spreading gossip, all while keeping watch over the neighborhood children, missing nothing. "Danny, go get your sister Dolores outta that street," Miss Marguerite, a neighborhood woman who knew us all by name, would snap from her window lookout. A Harlem crowded with lounges, restaurants, music venues, ballrooms, and movie theaters. A Harlem where my friends and I would hold taxi doors for women in mink stoles and crouch at the feet of men in suits and bowlers, shining their patent-­leather shoes to a sparkle. Lexington Avenue had cobblestones, and every now and then you'd see a horse and wagon clopping up the street. A Harlem of life, lights, and all kinds of humanity. Black restaurants, Irish bars, Italian social clubs, Latin dance halls. That Harlem, the Harlem of the 1950s, was the first Harlem I knew, the Harlem I inherited, the Harlem I was born into. My mother, Lily Mae Day, didn't trust doctors or hospitals, so she gave birth to me at home with my grandmother Ella getting off her sickbed to play midwife. I never met Grandma Ella cause she died only two days after I was born, so all I can do is imagine her holding me and wrapping me in a blanket: "It's a boy, Lily Mae." "Another one?" I can hear my mother's exhausted reply. "Lawd." It was the summer of 1944, and I was my mother's fourth boy in a row. It couldn't have been easy. When I came out the womb, everyone marveled at the size of my head: "Wow, his head as big as Moon's." Moon was my older brother James, two years old at the time, nicknamed on account of the planetary size of his head. Mine was just as big, so they nicknamed me Little Moon and started calling James Big Moon. The official name they gave me was Daniel, but when my parents went downtown to file my birth certificate, some clerk screwed it up and put me down as "Danial." It wasn't just me, either. My mother gave birth to three more children, all girls, and we each had inaccurate information on our birth certificates. Wrong gender. Wrong surname. Misspelled mother's maiden name. They were minor human errors in the grand scheme, but they symbolized a larger feeling of neglect. It was understood, literally from birth, that the system didn't really care about keeping our information correctly, that it didn't really care about us. Cause we were poor as hell. Poorest of Harlem's poor. Dirt poor. We lived in East Harlem in a five-­story tenement building on Lexington Avenue and 129th Street. My parents had come to the city as part of the Great Migration, and they struggled and fought to survive in an overwhelming new urban reality. My father, Robert Day, worked three jobs, while my mother managed us seven kids, a thankless full-­time job. My parents and their generation were new to city life. They had come from tight-­knit rural communities in the South where everyone knew each other, and in the early days of black Harlem, they did their best to re-­create those communities. All the doors to the apartments in our building stayed open all day long. Aunt Mary, my mother's first cousin, lived above us and could holler out her apartment to ask my mother to borrow sugar, and my mother could holler back a reply. We never needed house keys. The front door of our building was always kept propped open by a heavy rock, and our mutt and two cats just came and went as they pleased, in and out, just like us. Each block was its own microcosm of small-­town Southern life. Each neighborhood was associated with a particular region, so that you had the people who came from South Carolina living in one area, the ones from Virginia in another. I didn't meet a black person whose family was from North Carolina until I visited Brooklyn, where a lot of them had settled. That's how specific these neighborhoods were. And not only that, if you were from a particular town in the South, say Spartanburg, South Carolina, you often came to the city specifically to live on the Spartanburg block. Every bar and church and restaurant on that block would be full of folks from your little hometown. Folks knew each other from back home. And that generated respect and a sense of safety. People bonded over their shared histories, slang, and culture. But in the years to come, as these small neighborhood communities in Harlem were bulldozed and replaced by high-­rise project buildings, the city started grabbing people with no concern for where they'd come from, disconnecting folks from each other and their way of life. Neighbors didn't know each other, didn't share anything, didn't feel a sense of respect or safety among each other. Doors started getting padlocked. You ask me, I think a lot of the bigger problems in Harlem today can be traced back to the destruction of those houses and that more connected way of life. Our building was in a neighborhood almost exclusively made up of folks who had come from South Carolina and Virginia, with maybe a sprinkling of folks from Georgia. We knew everyone in our building. It was a private tenement, real intimate, and my father worked as the superintendent. Nine of us Days lived crammed together in a small three-­bedroom apartment, sharing a single bathroom. There was a restaurant run by a Greek guy named Jimmy on the ground floor where my father also worked maintenance and where we'd often get free leftover soup for dinner. Every single morning, we'd wake up to gospel music coming from the radio, which was my mother's doing. She was deeply religious and started the day with the sounds of Joe Bostic's Gospel Train, the oldest and most famous gospel radio show in the country. Bostic, a pioneer in his own right, mainstreamed gospel music and introduced gospel legend Mahalia Jackson to the world in 1951. Of course, us kids didn't think too highly of him. I can appreciate gospel music now, but back then we couldn't stand it, especially the show's repeated tagline, "The train is a-­coming!" In the kitchen, we'd pull a box of Corn Flakes out the cupboard and a bottle of milk out the icebox. Everybody had iceboxes back then, no fridges yet. You'd have to actually buy ice to fill the thing and keep the food cold. We bought our ice from Del Monte, an Italian who used to ride around the neighborhood in a blue truck, calling out from the street: "Ice for the icebox! Twenty-­five cents apiece!" For a quarter, he'd put a big block of ice in his bucket, lift it onto his shoulder, and carry it upstairs for you. We'd pull out the cold milk, then we'd smack the cereal box on its side two times--­whack, whack--­to make sure we got the roaches out before we started pouring it into our bowls. Then we'd eat our cereal. For our first years of school, my mother sent me and my older brothers, Carl, Cary, and James, to a Catholic school two blocks from our house, All Saints, on Madison Avenue between 129th and 130th Streets, which is still there. They had a little sunken play yard where they'd let us out during the day. The mothers used to come and throw pennies and nickels down, and the kids would take the change and line up to buy candy. Every morning, I'd always ask my mother, "Mom, could you please come and throw me a nickel during recess?" But she never came. When I got older, I was grateful to my mother for sending us to a good private school in the first place; I realized that she was far too busy at home with my younger sisters, Dolores, Deborah, and Doris, to come back to school to throw me a nickel. She woulda had to load up three kids in the middle of the day just so I could get a piece of candy. But at the time, it just made me so sad. Looking back, an experience like that probably made me a good hustler. On a subconscious level, I understood that if I wanted anything, I'd have to get it myself, cause ain't nobody coming. Excerpted from Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem: A Memoir by Daniel R. Day, Mikael Awake All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.